Portey: Ja's best kept secret

Claude Mills, Staff Reporter

The Victorian gingerbread architectural style of the classic DeMontevin Lodge on Fort George Street is a must-see for tourist.

SOME PEOPLE refer to the town as the island's 'Best Kept Secret'. Others once mockingly called it the 'Banana Capital of Jamaica'.

But whatever the moniker, if you prefer to vacation outside of the mainstream of Jamaica's tourist industry, then 'Portey' -- as Port Antonio is affectionately called by locals -- is the ideal spot.

Famous for its 'green gold' (bananas) back in its heyday, Port Antonio has evolved into the quintessential 'charming seaside town nestled in tropical green hills'.

But the town boasts a milieu that is hard to match anywhere else in eastern Jamaica: friendly residents, quaint buildings dotting the lush landscape, the silky waters of twin harbours and a beautiful resort area, Navy Island which lies just a few kilometres from the main peninsula, and borders the east harbour.

Following World War I, the rich and famous jetsetters began arriving among them, notables such as the then world's wealthiest man, J.P. Morgan, newspaper magnate Randolph Hearst, actress Clara Bow, and the legendary actor Errol Flynn, who built a home on Navy Island, were regulars at this small town idyll.

Most stayed in Titchfield, also the original name of the town, in a residential area which is still admired for its examples of Victorian gingerbread architecture including the classic DeMontevin Lodge on Fort George Street.

The town bustles but the rustic charm is unmistakable. The police station, which gained notoriety a little over a year ago when there was a mass transfer of police officers, slumbers in the afternoon quiet; pot-bellied cops laugh with locals, not far from a sign in front of the station's entrance that declares "Only You Can Stop AIDS".

A few tourists were spotted shutter-bugging locals, while others were seen struggling with heavy camping bags strapped to their backs.

"Business is kind of slow in the town but the people dem still nice. Is months now I don't get no water in my pipes, the roads dem bad and the drug trade mash up the reputation of the town. The town is just not the same, 'Portey' did much better years ago, the tourists dem not coming like dem used to, occupancy in the hotels down, and everybody a drive taxi or a hustle," Icilda Hayes, a 59-year-old resident of the town, said.

The original cannons and powderhouse of Fort George are located at the Titchfield High school which has been around since 1786. The school, which is located at Titchfield Hill kisses the east harbour, and is on the tip of the peninsula. The sea-water laps the shore only a few strides away from classrooms.

However, the Titchfield High school's swimming club was disbanded following the death of one of the students, and students are forbidden to take a swim.

To get the best view of the town of Port Antonio and its environs, you have to travel up to the Bonnie View Plantation hotel nestled in the lush verdant hills of the enchanting Blue Mountains. The tropical scenery from a 600-foot high view that unfolds to reveal the rugged beauty of the violently-green landscape, is well worth the trip. Bring your cameras.

Navy Island is only a short, boat ride away. The resort area has great African-style cottages and villas, and a marina bar and restaurant. There are also a wide variety of water sporting activities. Guided tours are offered by reservation.

One must-see is the imposing brick facade of the Anglican Christ Church in the heart of the town. The church celebrated its 160th anniversary this year.

Warning! Your mouth will make a pop when it hits your chest when you first step inside the Village of St. George shopping centre, located on West Street. Once you enter, you are sent cartwheeling back in time to 14th and 15th Century Europe.

The village characterises the architectural style of Spanish and English buildings built during the Renaissance period symbolic of the time when Christopher Columbus discovered Jamaica in 1492 to the period when the British captured Jamaica from the Spaniards in 1655.

Features include: water-colour paintings depicting Jamaica's lush tropical flora, a Tudor-style house with a black and white chequered facade, painted Gothic arches, coloured marble and patterned stone floors and even wrought iron balustrades spiralling up the second storey. Shops include a uni-sex salon.

Ziggy Fahmie, the village's architect, also built the Jamaica Palace hotel.

Go see the Folly Lighthouse. There is a folk tale that surrounds the ruins which involves a man who had built a fabulous castle for his wife, but had instructed the workmen to use sea water to mix the concrete instead of regular water.

When she finally came to see the house, there were enormous cracks in the walls and she refused to live in it. Upon seeing this titanic mistake by her beau, the lady's first words were -- you guessed it -- "what a folly".

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