
Mr. Winston Sylvester (third left) and Mr. Camille Salloum (fourth left) commend local footwear manufacturers. With them are from left, Miss Suzette Ennis, Cordell Footwear Limited; Mr. Don Foster, national programme director, HEART Trust/NTA; Miss Cheralee Morgan, Garmex Academy, and Mr. Collin Barnett, manager of the institute. THE GARMEX HEART Academy will be spearheading a three-year training programme, to support other initiatives being planned to revitalise the local footwear sector.
The training, to be implemented in three phases, is aimed at developing various specialised skills and techniques required for a viable shoe manufacturing entity. "The HEART Trust/NTA is committed to training in this sector to ensure a self-sustaining, and more competitive production base in the domestic market," said Mr. Colin Barnett, manager, Garmex Academy.
According to the manager, the Garmex Academy and footwear manufacturers have agreed to focus on in-plant training in the first phase. It was further agreed that the in-plant skill training of workers would be done in one of the largest local footwear factories, in a spirit of collaboration.
Mr. Barnett said that the Academy's involvement in this latest round of efforts to resuscitate the local footwear sector, resulted from a series of meetings called by manufacturers, to address issues related to training with the institution.
He said that the decision to collaborate was made against the background of the success of the short training courses put on by the Garmex Academy for footwear manufacturers early this year.
"Manufacturers were very encouraged by Garmex's initiative to establish business linkages between small producers of garment and leather goods, and more established traders, including some regional buyers," Mr. Barnett explained. "Footwear manufacturers are now optimistic that Garmex can assist in improving job skills," he said.
Manufacturers were also hoping that the Academy can influence the revision of policies and programmes to facilitate the projected growth which they anticipate could result from production by a more competent and trained workforce.
Mr. Frederick Hawthorne, a member of the Garmex Management Advisory Committee, stated that the market potential of men's footwear in Jamaica was approximately six million pairs a year, while annual local shoe production was currently some 300,000 pairs. "There are vast opportunities for the local market, and Garmex is prepared to work with manufacturers to ensure that they can produce competitively," he argued.
He pointed out that a structured programme of assistance, especially for manufacturers in the low-and mid-price market, would be necessary to ensure viability of the local footwear industry against the volume of imported products.
Trade figures provided by the Statistical Institute of Jamaica (STATIN) showed that, over a one-year period, exports of footwear declined by more than 50 per cent, from $40.3 million in 1998 to $23.1 million in 1999, while imports increased by 4 per cent from $772.8 million to $806.6 million in the same period. The export value of footwear in 1999 was 2.9 per cent of import value; while export value plunged by 42.6 per cent in 1999.
Garmex Management Advisory Committee chairman, Miss Cheralee Morgan, noted that many local producers are proficient in the design and manufacture of construction-styled boots, popular in the Jamaican and overseas markets. "With the proposed training and support service, Jamaican manufacturers of this product line should be able to establish a reputation for themselves, with sub-contract manufacturers and retailers," she said.
Major elements in the proposed training programme include product development, design and quality control; machine mechanics; costing and pricing; and marketing.
"Training of trainers would also be a part of this new thrust. In addition, customised in-plant training for machine operators, bench men and graders, by company supervisors is expected to minimise downtime in the factories," Mr. Barnett emphasised.
Mr. David Hares, of Hares Shoe Manufacturing, located in Portmore, St. Catherine, was one of several footwear manufacturers who benefited from the introductory training sessions earlier this year. And, he supports the idea of a structured curriculum for the industry, pointing to the many setbacks, including low productivity, being experienced by his counterparts, and his company.
Jamaican footwear manufacturers admitted, however, that other agencies must be a part of this revitalisation programme. This broadening, and strengthening, of collaboration is needed to address concerns such as the high cost of raw material; facilitation of easier access to a wider variety of leather supplies in overseas markets; and plant retooling, as most plants are operating with outdated production machinery, some as much as 50 years old.
Mr. Hares noted, for example, that a pair of imported leatherette school shoes retails for $500, which is equal to the cost of material to produce a similar pair of shoes locally.
Shrinking demand for Jamaican made footwear has resulted in a substantial downturn in production and production and productivity levels. One factory with a capacity to turn out some 500 pairs of men's footwear weekly, has seen production plunge to approximately 36 pairs.
However, a fairly recent study by the Garmex Academy Management Committee, showed that the local footwear sector, which has been identified as a priority cluster in the Government's National Industry Policy, has been experiencing a slower rate of decline over previous years. This has been due primarily to the expansion and retooling of the country's largest locally-owned plant; coupled with the emergence of a number of micro operators, over the last two years, the document revealed.
Manufacturers insisted that access to a range of imported leathers would enable local manufacturers to offer price competitive and more stylish footwear to the domestic market. "If conditions remain as they are, it is not worth the time to even think about the export market," one manufacturer stated.