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MEAN BUT SWEET It's Star-Apple season

By Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor

ROUND, SHINY and smooth, with skin a deep burgundy or shimmering green, plus creamy, sweet on the inside, Star-Apples nonetheless have an image problem.

Star-Apples grow unrestrained on large, tall trees in forested areas but never fall from their vines, even when ripe. This has given rise to the accusation ­ mean like Star-Apple, for people who tend to be tight-fisted.

Still, despite its reputation, the pulpy fruit with the distinct taste and the 'Star' (embedded with easily-removed black seeds) which reveals itself when the fruit is halved is heavenly for many.

At the moment Star-Apples (scientific name Chrysophyllum cainito) can be spotted in large quantities ­ particularly in the countryside and in the markets.

Historic recipe books insist that the only way to eat a Star-Apple is to cut more than half-way through, twist the top around then pull and the core will come away. Remove the seeds and eat pulp with a spoon, stopping as close to the edge as you can stand the taste. (What a description).

Then there is 'Matrimony' ­ a traditional Jamaican drink and dessert not remembered by too many but still enjoyed by older folks. Although two recipes from conflicting connoisseurs are detailed below, I will not miss the opportunity to take Star-Apple one step further, creating drinks, a dinner, a light 'dessert' and then a cheese and fruit plate. Enjoy.

Making the most of the season

Matrimony

Recipe 1:

3 star-apples

3 Oranges

4 tbsps. Heavy Cream

2 tsps. sugar

Recipe 2:

3 star-apples

3 grapefruits

4 tbsps. condensed milk

METHOD

Wash Star-Apples and remove pulp.

Recipe 1: Peel orange and remove seeds and all skin around fruit. Mix with pulp of Star-Apple. Add Cream and sugar. Chill and serve as a dessert.

Recipe 2: Cut grapefruit, squeeze and strain juice into a blender, add Star-Apple pulp and condensed milk. Blend with ice and serve as a drink.

Strawberry & Cream

Open six Star-Apples, remove core and seeds. Place pulp in a blender. Add two whole Maraschino Cherries, a shot of Appleton Rum, 1/2 shot Tequila, sugar syrup to taste, plus a dash of nutmeg. Blend with ice. Serve with a dash of Grenadine as 'garnish'. For a delicious cooling drink, do not add alcohol.

Blue Skies

Open six Star-Apples, remove core and seeds. Place pulp in a blender. Add the juice of 1 orange and 1 lime, a shot of Appleton rum, sugar syrup to taste, and a dash of nutmeg. Blend with ice. Serve with a dash of Blue Curacao as 'garnish'.

Spicy Star-Apple Chutney

6 lbs. Star-Apple, remove seeds,

set aside pulp

5 lbs. Otaheite Apples,

peeled & chopped

1 cup seedless raisins

5 1/2 cups sugar

1 cup salt

1 oz ground allspice

1 teas. allspice seeds

1 oz. ground cloves

1/2 oz. ground peppercorns

Dash of nutmeg

Dash of cinnamon

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/2 oz. finely chopped Scotch

Bonnet pepper ­ remove seeds first

6 cups white vinegar

1 tbsp. Sherry

Dash Appleton Rum

Dash Angostura Bitters

METHOD

Boil all ingredients together for five hours or until thick. Pour into warm sterilised jars. Seal and cool.

Jah Curry

1 tbsp. grated fresh ginger

2 onions, peeled and chopped

1/4 cup butter

1 tbsp. curry powder

1 tbsp. all-purpose flour

1 tsp. crushed coriander seeds

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

3 Star-Apples

2 tsps. lime juice

1 tsp. allspice seeds

Salt and pepper to taste

3 cups freshly grated coconut

4 cups mixed chopped fruits (Otaheite Apples, seedless grapes (halved), bananas, melon, apples, pears, peaches (tinned) and plums (if available)

3 to 4 tbsps. cream

Fry onion in butter. Stir in curry, flour, coriander, garlic and ginger. Simmer for five minutes. Blend in stock an add Star-Apple pulp. Add allspice. Bring to boil. Add lime juice. Simmer for 30 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Stir in coconut, prepared fruits and cream. Serve hot with Basmati Rice. Garnish with chopped chives. Use Star-Apple Chutney on the side.

Serves 4.

Star-Apple Sherbet

6 Star-Apples

2 limes

1 1/4 cups sugar syrup

1 tbsp. orange juice

METHOD

Remove pulp from Star-Apple (save halved outer case), add lime juice. Puree with sugar syrup and orange juice. Blend well. Pour into freezer trays and freeze for 1 hour. Remove from freezer, beat vigorously for two minutes. Pour into suitable container and re-freeze. Serve in rounded scoops in Star-Apple empty halves.

Garnish with mint leaf.

Cheese Plate

Place chunks of four to six different cheeses of your choice with several slices of banana bread on a cake stand. Decorate with a bunch of seedless grapes ­ a few hanging over the side of stand ­ and a sprinkle of raisins. Place cheese stand on a large decorative plate. Fill plate with bunches of seedless grapes (try to get different varieties), pieces of Star-Apple, watermelon, pineapple, mango (not too ripe) and Otaheite apples, all with their skin. Decorate with edible flowers in various colours.

- Courtesy of SeaSplash in Negril

Rosemary Parkinson is the author of Culinaria: The Caribbean.

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