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Lessons from Madrid


- Barbara Ellington photo

Plaza de Major, a popular night spot for the young and the old in Madrid, Spain.

Barbara Ellington, Features Coordinator

WHEN A country receives 70 million tourists annually, it is clear that they are doing some things right. Almost ten years ago, Spain in terms of economic development was virtually nowhere in the European Union (EU), since then, its growth has been phenomenal even though it still receives EU funding for some projects. It is currently the head of the EU, a position it will hold for the next six months.

The third largest country in continental Europe, Spain is a part of the Iberian Peninsula that juts out at the south-eastern tip of Europe with a surface area of 505,955 square kilometres. Spain has a population of 40 million and is currently ruled by the conservative party following the dictator General Franco's death in the 1970s.

I arrived in Spain on May 23, as part of a group of journalists invited there by British Airways who are currently offering packages to various European destinations. The new approaches to air travel are part of the airline's drive to boost business following an over US$400 million loss of revenue last year.

The airline is now offering packages to various European destinations including Spain, and Jamaicans desirous of vacationing there - either individually or in groups - may make bookings which include transfers, hotel accommodation, theatre tickets, tours and more.

Prior to September 11, I enjoyed flying; the longer the better. This time, however, though the flights to London and Spain were relatively smooth, my imagination went into overdrive and with every air pocket or bit of turbulence, my heart lurched to my throat as I worked myself into such a state that by the return trip I had nightmares of being aboard the China Airlines aeroplane that had crashed into the sea during the trip.

But once on land, for two days, I enjoyed Madrid in all its endearingly civilised charm. It began after being settled into the Omni Palace Hotel with its opulent chandeliers, exotic carpets and spacious rooms with comfortable furnishings.

Just an hour and a half from London by air, Madrid is filled with the contrasts of modern amenities and old architecture that have withstood the test of time. There are elegant civic buildings, museums, monuments, fountains (all working and clean), litter­free roads, beautifully manicured hedges and churches.

One has only to drive around the city for a few minutes to realise that almost all of the world's large corporations have offices there. Another city, Barcelona, is famous for the Olympics and, as our tour guide said, the country is now reaping the benefits of the investment in the stadium and other facilities erected for the 1992 games.

From the opening sentence of this story, it is not incorrect to assume that tourism is Spain's leading money earner. Previously, it received the third largest number of tourist behind the United States and France but as of last year Spain jumped to second place. The other income-generating industries are textiles, olive oil, the service sector, clothing, leather goods, linens, citrus and milk.

It is not difficult to figure out why this is a tourist mecca, the streets are clean and devoid of potholes, hotel/restaurant staff are courteous, tour guides are knowledgeable, there are numerous activities to fill the hours, apart from the occasional beggar there's no harassment and tourists are forewarned about pick-pockets before venturing on the streets.

Visitors to Spain come mainly from Europe and most book up to two years in advance. The Germans use Spain as a retirement home and prefer the warmer southern areas of the country. Spain continues to attract persons who would have visited countries such as Egypt, Yugoslavia and other war ravaged areas. There are also visitors from Mexico and some Latin American countries.

One of the main attractions for visitors is Spain's collection of over 30 museums, among them, the Museo Nacional Del Prado - which we visited and the world famous, Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. From age four, children must begin visit museums and during the course of one school year, the average Spanish child visits at least 20 museums. This is part of the free education received by all up to tertiary level in any of 68 public universities. There are also 15 private universities. (More on works exhibited at the Prado Museum in the Arts section of next Sunday's Gleaner)

Activities in Madrid are not as frenzied as in large U.S. cities; the pace is slower, restaurants do a thriving business and patrons dine outdoors. Lines are always long to enter popular eateries and this extends to well past midnight. One will notice several Jamaican Coffee houses in Madrid but don't be fooled by the items on the menu with familiar Jamaican names. Our brand is out there but that's as far as it goes. But it was heart-warming to see the signs all over the place.

The city comes to life at nights; some clubs open early and continue till daylight, restaurants are everywhere with a tantalising array of dishes and patrons don't seem to mind what we consider cold weather. Tapas (wine and snack) bars are popular and meals begin with bread and end with a sweet muscatel or a cooling lemon sherbet.

Calle De Cuchilleros, established in 1725, is one of the oldest restaurants in Madrid. On three floors, negotiating the narrow stairs is tricky but once inside, the experience is memorable.

Most entrees are served piping hot and one soon becomes used to eating the hard crusted rolls straight from the tablecloth.

Window shopping or actually purchasing goods is fun even though prices are high on the Cerrano Street packed with designer shops. There is a wide variety of fans and lace shawls as well as the beautifully coloured mosaic tiles in the souvenir shops. Some streets are closed for antique fairs on weekends and knowledge of Spanish, the language spoken by Spaniards is an asset, especially if hunting for a bargain.

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