The entrance to the basilica at The Valley of the Fallen.
Barbara Ellington, Features Co-cordinator
ONE OF the most visited attractions in Madrid, Spain, is the majestic controversial monument located at The Valley of the Fallen. A final resting place of some 50,000 soldiers who lost their lives in the 1936-1939 civil war, it is a gift to the country from dictator General Francisco Franco, whose remains are also buried inside the chapel. Over one million Spaniards lost their lives in the war.
The gift is regarded as controversial because of Franco's dictatorial leadership style and the fact that he is seen as the reason for the massive loss of lives during the civil war. Be that as it may, The Valley of the Fallen has become a must-see for Christian visitors, particularly Catholics.
Set inside the massive rocky hill, only the imposing facade with a huge statue on the portion of the roof that juts out front is visible. It is constructed from granite and this basilica which has a 20-ton bronze entry door, was officially opened by Pope John XXIII in 1959. But what draws the attention immediately, is the imposing 150-metre high cross that sits atop a hill and is visible from a distance as one approaches the site.
The adventurous may ascend to the peak of the hill using the steps on the mountain side on foot, or by way of the lift. Another option is to simply sit and drink in its splendour. If one looks carefully on the distant peaks of the rocky hillsides that surround the Valley of the Fallen, one will be able to discern several cabins where some monks reside.
About 50 metres inside the basilica, is a gate that symbolically shortens the length of the 300-metre structure so that it would not be bigger than its counterpart in Rome. The interior is dark and statues such as Our Lady of Mercy and Our Lady of Africa, grace the recesses of the walls on both sides.
The decor takes one's breath away. The ceiling is covered with etchings by famous artists and there are hand woven tapestries in gold, silver and silk, the handiwork of weavers from Brussels. The collection is the most important in the world and capture themes such as the four horses of the apocalypse and the last battle of Armageddon. Each is worth an estimated US$2 million.
However, in the Chapel of the Dead, two masses are held daily and there are even confessional booths for those who need to use them. The organ, with pipes on both sides of the main sitting area, is one of the largest in the world and the extremely wealthy may rent the facility for weddings.
MONASTERIO DE SAN LORENZO DE EL ESCORIAL
According to Spanish history, the Monasterio de San Lorenzo de El Escorial is the "monument which best sums up the ideological and cultural aspirations of the Spanish 'Golden Age'. It belongs to a period in which Spain became not only the champion of the Catholic Counter-Reformation against those countries which had embraced the cause of Protestant Reformation, but also through territorial possessions acquired by its dynastic alliances in Europe and domination of virtually all the American continent, the greatest of all the world powers."
More importantly, its founder Phillip II (1527-1598), wanted his own royal museum, hence all the kings, queens and their offspring are buried there.
The tour begins with a view of the king's bed chamber from which he watched the festivals and other events when his health failed due to gout. The furniture, tapestries and even kitchen utensils have been preserved over the centuries in their original state.
In keeping with King Phillip's personality, the monastery is austere and sombre. Its blue tiles and white walls symbolise chastity and purity. The sedan chair that brought the king to the monastery where he wanted to die, is a part of the collection in the chair room. Other rooms in El Escorial are the ambassadors room, the dining room and the hall of the throne which houses paintings that depict battles against France and Holland.
I enjoyed going through the rooms that house the tombs of the kings of Spain and their families, mainly because of my fascination with the dead and my belief that respect should be accorded to the final resting place of the dear departed. The tombs and head stones are made of black/white marble; jasper, gilt and bronze.
Phillip II conceived the idea for El Escorial as a burial place for Spain's kings and queens and had it built as "a mansion for God".
There are two pantheons (buildings serving as burial place for the nation's famous dead), reflecting different aesthetic styles. The Royal Pantheon is Baroque and dates back to the 17th century whereas the eclectic Princes' Pantheon dates to the 19th century. The former is octagonal in shape with a semi-dome and currently houses 26 beautiful coffins neatly stacked in recesses for four.
One gets to the Royal Pantheon by descending four flights of stairs but the journey is worth it. As pictured here, the decor befits royalty and shows that no expense was spared to create this fitting tribute to the dead. Before finally coming to rest here, the remains have to be placed in a temporary vault for decomposition, adjacent to the tomb for a period of 25 years.
The kings' remains are placed chronologically on the right hand side of the altar in the tomb, from Charles V, to Alfonso XIII, and the queens' on the left.
The bronze decoration in the room was done by Italian craftsmen and the marble work was done by Pedro de Lizargarate and Bartolome Zumbigo and the richness of the bronze and marble as well as the embellishment of the dome with grotesques, are examples of early Baroque art.
Travel to Madrid
There is much more to see at these two locations than space permits but persons who wish to see them may travel to Madrid or any other European city, from Kingston via London on British Airways.
The airline will check baggage straight through to the final destination, furnish boarding pass for the connection and arrange ground transfers, theatre tickets and day tours. There are also special fares for full-time or part-time students studying in Jamaica or overseas, valid for a year provided proof of status is supplied.
Although British Airways has discontinued flights out of Montego Bay, customers remain loyal and the service is popular with minors and senior citizens.
"Routes are constantly being reviewed worldwide but the demand on the Jamaica to United Kingdom route is high. Local business has grown because more Jamaicans see the UK as a good destination, there is no visa requirement and many people have relatives there," Diane Corrie, British Airways' country manager, North Caribbean, told The Sunday Gleaner.
The trip to Madrid was made possible by British Airways.
