By Rosemary Parkinson, Freelance Writer
Kimchee's spread - a colourful array of dishes from Charcoal Boneless Chicken to Cabbage Pickle.- Photos By Rosemary Parkinson
Kimchee Restaurant
15 Old Hope Road, Kingston 5
Phone: 929-2558, 929-2536
Prices start J$35
Local soups & dishes daily
Catering for all occasions
GOD IS truly good and works in mysterious ways and I am going to tell you why.
I have been in a quandary this week as to what to write about next. Riddled with indecision more like it. This was not because of the lack of good nosh -- two weeks at the Half Moon Hotel, Montego Bay, with its incredible restaurants could hardly not provide me with food for thought. Looking after the well-being of some 80 young professional gorgeous tennis players (Bell Caribbean Futures) should only help to excite my creative mind. But nada. Nutting. El braino filled with confusion.
Then finally I thought: "Something really Jamaican. Independence is around the corner." That was it. Perfect. So, believe you me, I ran out and tried three places in one day -- I was over my deadline for handing in the review and desperate. All were worthy of a story but still, I had no real inspiration coming from within. Then that voice again, this time the enlightened one, the one that knows when to be loud and poignant so that I listen carefully and take heed: "Rosemary, remember Kimchee, you've not written that review yet. You went, you ate, you loved, but no review. Do it now." And so it came to pass that I phoned Kimchee's for the usual details and discovered, much to my shock, that a true son of the soil had left this 'mortal coil' only last month.
Clifton Peart had a long love affair with oriental cuisine. From an early age, he worked at the famous Korea Restaurant on Knutsford Boulevard, New Kingston, under Dr. Kim and later with one of his proteges, Gordon Atkin, at Gordon's Restaurant in the PCJ Building. You might remember I did a review on Trafalgar Restaurant newly opened by Gordon Atkin who also was taught by Dr. Kim.
Coincidence? I don't think so. There's a reason for everything. And as to why I should have been holding back the review on Kimchee Restaurant for so long when it would have been a perfect progression -- I revert to my opening statement -- God is good and works in mysterious ways.
Marcia Peart, once I had introduced myself, asked directly "Are you giving me a good review?" For some reason, I answered immediately "Of course". I promise -- I normally never divulge the contents of my reviews -- and I mean to no one. Marcia then told me her sad news. Clifton, her beloved husband had passed away suddenly last month and a good review at this time would be a Godsend. Wow!
Back at work at the restaurant Clifton opened with so much pride in 1993, Marcia has been worried that her clientele would dwindle because 'the master' was no longer there in person. "He was the chef, everybody looked up to him. He just loved his restaurant and he was very gifted with food. Everybody knew he was a good husband to me and a fantastic father to Shawn and Shenelle. My friends would always comment on how lucky I was. I knew too but I also always understood that this restaurant was his greatest joy."
So who's in the kitchen now, you might ask. Clifton Peart's spirit and Judith Bromfield, his loyal 'student' of 20 years. Judith has taken up the challenge, determined not to waiver but to work side by side with her guide. "And that is how Clifton would want it," says Marcia.
So those of you who enjoy cuisine that is a little different, innovative and delicious -- those of you who enjoy good Jamaican fare (available daily) drop in to sample Clifton and Judith's menu. I did and was not sorry.
Let us begin.
As always when I am eating a la oriental, I like to begin with soup. I chose the Wonton, my partner the Egg Drop. Both were what we had hoped for. Next for me was an appetiser that, if I remember rightly, was carded as Seaweed. Tempura vegetables and seaweed. This was simply different and I am always enthused with something different. Slices of perfectly seasoned vegetables covered in batter and dipped until slightly bronzed with delightful consequences. Ahhh... sometimes I wonder if I would not be better off being an appetiser reviewer. Just love them. True.
Once finished, the waitress, as friendly as could be, arrived with the array of chosen dishes -- a colourful display of artistry. There was Charcoal Boneless Chicken (Bul-Ko-Kee), Sweet and Sour Pork, Pork Muckney, Kimchee Cabbage Pickle and Clifton's own Chef's Special Combination Platter -- fish and shrimp being the favoured meat by my discerning semi-vegetarian friend (actually the one who introduced me to the place and gave me the low down at that time on the connection between Trafalgar and Kimchee). Everything we sampled that day was excellent, with one exception -- the pork. This was a little tough (easily rectified) and the sauce needed a little oomph (just one of my little oomphs). Nothing too serious. Mind you,
I must say that the sweet and sour sauce at all the 'oriental' restaurants visited so far in Jamaica, is not what I am accustomed to -- normally I know it to be a wonderful thick, pungent, mouth-watering delight of sweetness mixed with the slight sour of vinegar and filled with oomph. Somebody help me please -- kick that sweet and sour up a notch and invite me in.
The Charcoal Chicken was superb. This seems to be a
specialty of Kimchee's. It consists of tender parts of boneless chicken seasoned to perfection Korean style and placed on a grill over glowing charcoal. Another 'moorish' discovery was the Kimchee Cabbage Pickle -- shredded cabbage that has been marinated for a long time (hence the aroma, says Marcia) mixed with peppers, ginger and garlic. Incredible. I was in pepper utopia.
Oh, must comment on the cucumber salad that comes on the side. Clifton, wherever you are, that is quite heavenly. I tasted and recognised the sesame seed but hey, whatever is in that cucumber, I hope you told Judith all about it and if not -- for God's sake -- tell her now.
Rosemary Parkinson is renewed. And yes! God is good and indeed works in mysterious ways. Happy Independence Jamaica my adopted land.
