By Lavern Clarke, Staff ReporterBETWEEN the broadcast rights, on spot sales and the market opportunities from showcasing frothy clothing creations to the world, local high fashion is suddenly looking like it could have viable business prospects internationally - in the future.
Building a name as a fashion centre or a market for haute couture is at best difficult - with one of the main obstacles to overcome being the "euro-centric" attitude of regional buyers who are afraid to sell names that are unrecognised internationally despite having made their names locally.
"Buyers in the Caribbean are not interested in buying local creations," said Michael McMorris, vice president of markets at Jampro.
But it is deterring no one. Morris says Jampro's immediate focus is to raise the profile of local designers by "bringing them to market", hence the agency's sponsorship support for the weekend Caribbean Fashion Week. And, Kingsley Cooper whose Pulse models are often draped in local creations, says designers are better off seeking out linkages with international showrooms that offer them opportunities for developing a brand image.
The basis is there, with Cooper noting that CFW's success was not because of the good showmanship, but the quality of the designs.
Jampro's interest as an investment magnet for Jamaica is in exploring emerging markets with growing potential. The 'cut make and trim' and 807 side of apparel have long been losing that edge.
In Jamaica, apparel slumped from US$532.4 million or 38 per cent of total export earnings five years ago, to US$289 million or 24 per cent in 2001 as the market diminished, according to PIOJ figures. When the free zone/non-tax paying companies are excluded, total apparel exports last year was US$88.5 million.
Government is now seeking ways of tapping into the value-added side of the industry by exploiting the intellectual property that resides in the creativity of designers.
No studies exist to map what the potential is for fashion, but given that the waning apparel sector is still worth billions across the region and is a big employer, the idea said Cooper is to harness even a portion of the market for higher-end fashions.
It means viewing fashion as a service rather than a product.
"Designers have inherent value," said McMorris. "Things that are more competitive are intellectual property and creativity. Fashion design is just another manifestation of that."
Both the public and private sectors are seeing eye to eye on the trade potential.
Cooper's two-year-old Caribbean Fashion Week had $9 million in public sector sponsorship support from Jampro, Jamaica Tourist Board and the Jamaica Business Development Centre; $13 million in cash and services from the private sector, plus $4 million from Pulse, Cooper's modelling agency. The designers came from Trinidad and Tobago, Barbados, St. Lucia, Guyana, New York, Boston and Philadelphia - 24 showed their collections, but 40 were represented at the exhibition. Designers who had their government's support paid US$1,000 each, those without were charged US$700, and locals paid US$200. Trinidad and Barbados were also among the sponsors.
About 40 buyers showed up, a third from abroad, mostly New York.
Cooper says Pulse should recoup 20 per cent of the $26 million invested in the three day event, for management services provided to the event, some of which will come from the TV show it produced for broadcast in 25 countries in 2003. Last year it took $30 million to put on the show for four days said Cooper.
Fashion TV which had last year broadcast the show to over 100 countries, this year sent in its own crew to tape the show for broadcast. On Thursday, word emerged out of New York that Gary Williams will be representing the works of Patricia Henry Turner and dance hall fashion genius Earl 'Biggy' Turner in his showroom, and was in negotiation with two other designers who showed at CFW.
"Business was definitely done," said Cooper. "For example, Nefertari Caddle from Barbados sold her entire collection and took orders. I am sure she was not unique."
Nevertheless, Cooper said it would take time for any significant orders to emerge out of the initial contacts made on the weekend.
There is some indication that the luxury side of the international fashion market is currently flat - not unusual in periods of sluggish economic performance - but Jamaica is slowly developing a name in haute couture streetwear targeted at celebrities. The Marley name has given Cedella Marley a boost in this area, and now her clients include stage personalities like singers Erika Badu and Eve, and actress Sarah Jessica-Parker.
"The Caribbean's cachet, cultural uniqueness and creative integrity are the factors that give it an edge in a world dominated by much more powerful and established competitors," said Cooper.
