By Avia Ustanny, Freelance Writer 
Above: Dressmaker, Nerissa Swaby, dresses her daughter, Sujani, in a pant suit that she sewed.
"IT WAS a skirt suit that did it. It was the final straw. After years of struggling with this dressmaker she was my friend who constantly complained that she did not get enough support she really messed up this time. I had done my own design and I was really looking forward to this outfit, peach with black trim.
"But on the day I went to collect it, our friendship ended. The blouse was way too short and the sleeves were tight. She looked at me and did not even offer to take it back. She had collected my money already. I gave the suit away and never went back."
This tale told by a woman about her former dressmaker is a common scenario. In fact, the complaints are so frequent that one wonders why people bother to get their clothes "custom made" at all.
"They (dressmakers) are always late. They never make your clothes the way you want them to. They are inconsistent," complains another woman.
Nevertheless, the ritual of delivering cloth to the seamstress is still a favourite tradition in Jamaica and some women find this arrangement better than buying clothes off a rack?
Michelle Browntold Flair that she loves the personal attention of the dressmaker. "There is something very therapeutic, ego stroking, about getting something made just for you," she said.
Custom made or dressmaker made clothes should also display less of the tragedies of off-the-rack purchases such as inadequate seam allowances, improperly cut sleeves and uneven hems, to name a few.
Getting clothes made by someone who knows you personally may be great for getting the design, colour and the fit you are looking for. A good dressmaker should be able to help you with the best styles.
Larger sized women or those with "irregular" shapes may also find it a better choice to get their clothes made by an expert dressmaker than spending hours searching in the stores for something that fits. For special occasions, including weddings, dressmakers may also be your best bet.
COMMUNICATING IS THE KEY
Valerie Pagon, a tutor at Garmex HEART Academy, pointed out that the problems between client and dressmaker can be reduced if the client makes a greater effort to explain what she wants and provides the dressmaker with correct measurements. If you have made the wrong selection of style and colour, and if you lie about your waist size, do not expect your dressmaker to work a miracle.
Before you arrive at the dressmaker's door with your bundle of cloth in tow, do some research. Yes, you will be paying her for her knowledge and skills, but knowing what to ask for does not hurt either. It can sometimes be helpful to use clothes you have seen as a guide. Or, buy some dress catalogues and compare and contrast styles worn by women of your body type.
Notice details like necklines, sleeves, design lines; fabrics such as laces, brocades, satins and silks; trims such as piping and embroidery. A reputable designer should be able to advise you about which styles suit you and which don't.
If you're using a new dressmaker, make sure that you go to the studio and inspect the standard of work for yourself. A reputable designer should have a couple of sample dresses on hand for display. If only photographs are available, look closely at details such as seams, points on collars, and the general appearance of the garments. If she has no samples to show you, be very sceptical. It is possible she has something to hide.
A good dressmaker or skilled designer will not just accept everything you say and send you away. He or she should have lots of suggestions regarding design, fabrics and colours, and be able to design a dress that is perfect for you.
PAY THEM
Dressmakers and clients also quarrel frequently about price. There is a misconception in our society today custom made clothing is a cheaper alternative to buying off the rack. This is not necessarily true. if you want a reputable dress designer who is capable of designing the dress, making the pattern, and sewing it to perfection, don't expect this to be a cheap service.
If you've decided on a design, get a firm quote for the dress and find out what that quote includes. For example, some designers charge extra for fittings and alterations. Getting all the details before you place your order will help to avoid any nasty surprises later.
Before you leave the seamstress to work her magic, be sure to include notes about fabrics desired, pockets, buttons, closeness of fit, shoulder padding or bra cups, etc. Down the road, prepare to go back for fittings. There is a good chance that the dress will need to be adjusted before the day of the perfect fit.
Sharon Walkersaid she had been using the same dressmaker for the last 12 years because her service has been exceptional -- this, after years of frustrating experiences elsewhere and trying to do it herself.
"I have made things which I have never worn. I have big breasts and no bottom so I am not easy to fit. This dressmaker made one particular suit -- a blue tailored outfit that brought me a lot of attention. I passed on her number to all my female admirers. Even now that I have put on weight, she still keeps up with me," said Miss Walker.
You see, it's not impossible to find a good seamstress.
Developing a good relationship with an expert dressmaker takes some work. But in the end, the reward is that of having a professional who understands you and is committed to making you look your best.
Names changed as requested
