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Sweet success: Making meringue
published: Thursday | November 28, 2002


Meringue-frosted Zimtsterne (Cinnamon Cookie Stars), a favourite of traditional Jewish cuisine, are also popular for Christmas. - Cole Publishing Group/Universal Press Syndicate

"EASY DOES IT" is a good rule of thumb for making meringue, the foamy blend of sugar and beaten egg whites that is the basis for many cookies and other baked sweets.

Meringue-based recipes specify how the whites are to be beaten -- whether to the foamy, soft peak or stiff peak stage. But regardless of the stage you're aiming for, the following two tips will help ensure success with meringue.

First, whip the whites just to the desired stage but not beyond. Overbeating turns the whites stiff and dry (easily done with high-powered electric mixers), causing the whites to lose elasticity and ultimately to collapse. If you're uncertain about whether you've beaten whites to the proper stage for a particular recipe, remember "easy does it." It's safer to underbeat, since overbeaten whites can't be rescued.

The second tip involves sugar, which both sweetens meringue and helps it set in the oven. If possible, use superfine sugar, which has finely ground crystals, for meringue. Besides dissolving readily, this form of sugar helps absorb excess moisture that otherwise could bead on the surface of the meringue. Most important, add the sugar gradually ("easy does it").

SUCCESS TIPS:

Look for superfine sugar; it is available in most supermarkets. It can also be made by grinding granulated sugar in an electric minichopper or food processor.

To beat eggs (whites as well as yolks) to their greatest volume, bring them to room temperature before cracking them.

Warm meringue-based cookies are fragile and should be transferred carefully from baking sheet to cooling rack.

Made without flour, butter or shortening, these sweet nothings can be cut into any shape you desire. The dough is sticky and should be patted out rather than rolled.

Cinnamon Cookie Stars

3 egg whites, at room temperature

Pinch salt

1 1/4 cups superfine sugar

1 tbsp. ground cinnamon

5 to 5 1/2 cups (approximately) finely

ground unblanched almonds

METHOD

1. In mixer bowl, beat egg whites with salt until eggs reach soft peak stage (form droopy, moist peaks or points). Gradually add sugar; beat at high speed 10 minutes. With a spoon remove 3/4 cup of the meringue and set aside. Using lowest speed on mixer, blend cinnamon into remaining meringue.

2. Add 4 1/2 cups of the almonds to meringue, folding them in gently but
thoroughly.

3. Sprinkle work surface with about 1/2 cup of remaining ground almonds. (Add more ground almonds if needed to keep dough from sticking to surface or cutter). Pat out dough about 1/4 inch thick. Cut with star-shaped cutter. Transfer cookies to greased and floured baking sheets.

4. Using pastry brush or table knife, "paint" top of each cookie with even layer of reserved meringue. Let cookies stand in a cool room or in the refrigerator for 2 hours.

5. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Bake until cookies are very lightly coloured and tops feel firm when touched gently (about 20 minutes). Cool 5 minutes on baking sheets, then carefully transfer to wire racks to cool completely. Store in an airtight container.

Makes about 2 dozen 3-inch cookies.

These sophisticated cookies are wonderful with coffee, dessert wine or port. Although the recipe specifies removing the skins from the hazelnuts before chopping, this step is not absolutely necessary. However, do toast the nuts for the time given to give them added flavour.

Italian Hazelnut Meringues

1 cup unblanched hazelnuts

3 egg whites (6 tbsps.)

1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg

1/4 tsp. cream of tartar

1 cup superfine sugar

1 tbsp. Marsala or 1 tsp. vanilla extract

2 tbsps. finely chopped candied orange peel

METHOD

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread hazelnuts in a shallow pan. Bake until lightly browned (8 to 10 minutes). (After removing nuts from oven, lower oven setting to 300 degrees). Allow nuts to cool slightly, then wrap in a towel to steam for about 5 minutes. Rub off and discard most of the brown skins. Chop nuts finely; set aside.

2. Line baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside.

3. In mixer bowl, combine egg whites and nutmeg. Beat at high speed until foamy; eggs will have some "suds" but still be transparent and liquid. Add cream of tartar. Gradually add sugar, beating until mixture stands in stiff, glossy peaks. (Peaks should have a sheen to them; they should not be dry).

4. Beat in Marsala. Blend in hazelnuts and orange peel.

5. Drop by rounded teaspoons, placed about 2 inches apart, onto parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake until cookies feel firm when touched lightly (25 to 30 minutes). Remove to wire racks to cool.

Makes about 54 (2-inch) cookies.

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