A cooling yoghurt and cilantro sauce balances the spicy warmth of Indian vegetable fritters. - Cole Publishing Group/Universal Press SyndicateINDIAN SCRIPTURES and folklore are full of anecdotes of the gods being feasted and there's a recipe for every ritual. In the land of Gandhi, food is not just food, it's the stuff on which an ancient civilisation is built.
Indians spend half their lives cooking and eating. In Indian households cooking begins at 5:00 a.m. and may not end before 6:00 p.m., says former Indian High Commissioner to Jamaica Om Prakash Gupta.
The food has to be cooked fresh every day with ingredients bought the same day -- and leftovers (even from one meal to the next) is a no-no. That's a supreme insult to Indian men who are fussy about their food, says Mr. Gupta.
In addition to feasting, the healing properties of food are important to Indians, who, for example, are big on onions, because it helps to reduce blood pressure, turmeric because it protects the stomach and basil (tulsai) to purify the blood.
Take a little trip to India in this issue of Food by making up a batch of traditional Indian fritters and pakoras.
Plus, we put together a glossary of Indian food names that are widely recognised and commonly used in Indian cooking.
SUCCESS TIP:
To ensure light, crisp pakoras and fritters that aren't greasy, fry them in a thermostatically controlled deep fryer or electric skillet that can maintain the temperature of the oil at 375 degrees. A deep, sturdy cooking pot or wok and a deep-fat or candy thermometer for monitoring the oil temperature can be used in place of electric cookware.
Although pakoras are typically made with chickpea flour, this variation uses wheat flour, which is easier to find. If desired, the pakoras can be fried ahead of time and reheated briefly in a 375-degree oven just before serving.
Cauliflower Pakoras
Pakoras are typically accompanied with a type of yoghurt-based sauce known as a raita -- a name derived from the rai (black mustard seed) that flavours many Indian dishes. From cucumber to cilantro, spinach, mango, banana, nut and other produce, there's a raita to complement every kind of pakora and suit almost any palate.
1 head cauliflower (about 1 lb.),
separated into small florets
2 tbsps. canola or other vegetable oil
1 Bermuda onion, minced 1 clove garlic, minced
2 tsps. fresh or canned jalapeno chilli,
minced, or to taste
4 sprigs parsley, minced
2 sprigs fresh mint, minced
1 1/2 cups flour
1 tbsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
1 tsp. cumin seed
1/4 tsp. turmeric
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/8 tsp. cayenne, or to taste
3/4 cup water
1/2 cup milk
Canola or other vegetable oil, for frying
Cilantro Raita (see below)
METHOD
1. Cook florets in 3 quarts boiling water for 3 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon, drain and pat dry; set aside.
2. Add oil to preheated skillet over medium heat; sauté onion and garlic until softened (6 to 8 minutes); do not allow to burn. Stir in jalapeno, parsley and mint; cook 2 to 3 minutes more. Set aside.
3. In medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, salt, cumin seed, turmeric, black pepper and cayenne. Slowly stir in water and milk to make a thick batter. Let rest 30 minutes.
4. Stir in reserved cauliflower, onion and garlic. Into deep, heavy saucepan, pour about 4 inches of oil; slowly heat to 375 degrees. (If using electric deep-fryer, follow manufacturer's instructions). Add battered cauliflower, one teaspoon at a time, to the hot oil. Overcrowding the deep-fryer will lower the temperature of the oil, resulting in soggy, grease-laden food. Fry pakoras 2 minutes; using wire skimmer or slotted spoon, turn over and fry second side 2 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from hot oil with skimmer; drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining battered cauliflower. Cool pakoras briefly before serving with Cilantro Raita.
Makes 36 to 40 pakoras.
Cilantro Raita
This creamy, chilli-spiked sauce is good with raw vegetables as well as pakoras.
8 tbsps. cilantro
1 clove garlic, peeled
1/4 to 1/2 fresh or canned green jalapeno chilli
1 tsp. salt
1 cup plain yoghurt
METHOD
Mince cilantro, garlic and chilli; stir this mixture and the salt into yoghurt, blending well.
Makes 1 1/4 cups.
Indonesian Potato and beef fritters
These boldly seasoned fritters go well with Cucumber Raita and bottled chutney.
2 lbs. baking potatoes, boiled, peeled,
drained and mashed
2 large eggs
1 1/2 tsps. salt, or to taste
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
1/8 tsp. ground nutmeg
1 tbsp. canola or other vegetable oil,
plus oil for frying
4 shallots, finely chopped
1/2 tsp. finely grated fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 fresh or canned green chillies,
seeded and chopped
2 tsps. ground coriander seed
1 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 lb. extra-lean ground beef
2 tbsps. chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 cup very fine dried bread crumbs
Flour, for dusting Cucumber Raita (see below)
METHOD
1. In large bowl, stir together potatoes; 1 of the eggs, beaten; 1 teaspoon of the salt; the pepper and nutmeg.
2. Preheat large skillet or wok. When hot, add the 1 tablespoon oil; then add shallots, ginger, garlic, chillies, ground coriander and cumin. Sauté 1 minute. Increase heat to medium-high, add beef, and cook until browned (about 2 minutes). Add remaining salt. If liquid accumulates in work, reduce mixture over high heat. Transfer mixture to large bowl. When mixture has cooled, stir in fresh cilantro.
3. In small bowl, beat remaining egg. Place bread crumbs in shallow dish. Flour hands; place a heaping tablespoon potato mixture into palm of one hand. Place 2 teaspoons meat mixture into centre; cover meat with another tablespoon of potato mixture. Shape into a ball, enclosing meat filling. Roll in beaten egg, coat evenly with bread crumbs, and set on baking sheet to dry. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Refrigerate potato balls on baking sheet if not frying immediately.
4. Into deep, heavy saucepan pour about 3 inches of oil; slowly heat to 375 degrees. (If using electric deep-fryer, follow manufacturer's instructions.) Add potato balls in small batches, frying until golden brown (about 3 minutes), turning occasionally. Remove, drain on paper towels, and keep warm while frying remaining potato balls. Serve hot with Cucumber Raita.
Makes about 16 fritters.
Cucumber Raita
Black mustard seed for this recipe is available in supermarkets that sell Indian foods.
1 small cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped
1/2 cup plain yoghurt
2 tbsps. sour cream
1 tbsp. chopped fresh mint
1/2 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 tsp. ground cumin
Pinch cayenne pepper
1/2 small Bermuda onion, thinly sliced
1 1/2 tsps. canola or other vegetable oil
1/2 tsp. black mustard seed
1/4 tsp. salt
METHOD
1. Into medium-sized bowl, place cucumbers. Stir in yoghurt, sour cream, mint, coriander, cumin, cayenne and onion.
2. Heat oil in small skillet over medium heat. When oil is hot, add mustard seed, frying until seeds turn gray and stop sputtering. Using wire sieve, remove seeds from oil; stir seeds into yoghurt mixture. Refrigerate. Just before serving, stir in salt.
Makes about 1 3/4 cups.
