MEDICINE IS slowly beginning to realise that a sense of well-being is an important part of being healthy. Aromatherapy or the use of scents to lift our spirits, is an important component of this sense of well-being.
Citrus products are widespread in the fragrance industry. It is the very nature of citrus products to absorb, enhance and modify the identity of any fragrance in which they are used. Citrus products have the ability to lift the character of the fragrance and extend and enhance those notes that are present and create a fresh and lively aroma profile.
Some of the earliest world-famous colognes used citrus products of some sort. Imperial (1850) and Eau Imperiale (1861) by Guerlain included the use of bergamot, lemon, lime, mandarin, orange and orange blossom oils. The earliest European fragrances were based on citrus oils like lemon, lime, bergamot, orange, mandarin and petitgrain. The classic accords like Eau de Cologne (1750) and 4711 have been the foundations for many fragrances in history, eventually evolving into modern citrus blends.
CK One (1994) is an extremely popular top-selling fragrance worldwide. This universal appeal is in part attributable to the prodigious use of bergamot, lemon and mandarin. It is a fresh citrus cologne artfully blended with other ingredients to create a new entity with its own unique identity. Notes of pineapple and papaya are applied for the fruity character, cardamom and amber for the spice section, jasmine, lily, rose and freesia for floral section, and cedar, orris, sandalwood and oakmoss for the woody section. These are all supported by amber and musk. This is a great example of the way commonly-available ingredients can be utilised in a unique way to create a successful fragrance with universal appeal.
Eternity for Men (1989) utilises mandarin, lemon, and notes of orange blossom and petitgrain. This citrus blend is supported by basil, tarragon, sage and coriander for a spice section, geranium and lavender for a herbal section, cedar, vetivert, oakmoss, rosewood with a hint of jasmine amber, and oakmoss for a classic blend which is still popular and well-received today.
Polo Sport (1993) uses lemon and bergamot in addition to jasmine, rose, cyclamen and tagette for the fruity floral character. Geranium, lavender and artemesia form the herbal section, while oakmoss, cedar sandal and guaiacwood rest on a base of musk and amber. These, combined with a hint of nutmeg, form a classic blend of forest and deep, rich woody notes that are lifted as a result of the citrus section.
Tommy Hilfiger (1995) uses bergamot, lemon, lime, mandarin and grapefruit. In addition to wild berry notes, there is an herbal section using lavender and mint in addition to spices, including nutmeg and cinnamon. These are blended with an amber and musk foundation rounded out with sandalwood and cedar. While this is a sophisticated and complex fragrance, it is the citrus section that makes the whole composition fresh and lively.
Hugo for Men (1995) combines lemon, lime, orange and bergamot with oakmoss and other deep, rich, woody forest notes. These notes are blended with lavender, geranium, mint, sage and other spices. These are further blended with touches of jasmine and muguet. Cedar, sandalwood and vetivert support these notes, which magnify and enhance the grapefruit character.
After a new type (or a similar type) of fragrance has been introduced, a second tier of related functional products such as soap, hair care, creams, lotions, candles and air-freshener products can be expected to follow close behind. These products often have their various medicinal uses as well.
Dr. Sylvia Mitchell, research fellow (Graduate School), Biotechnology Centre, University of the West Indies, Mona; email: smitchel@uwimona.edu.jm.
