Michelle Barrett
Staff Reporter
IN THE fashion world most of the attention is placed on the models. Rarely are the people behind the scenes in the spotlight. This week Flair turns the lens on two of the
people stylist Tyron Mayes and make-up artist Udo Spreitzenbarta who have the task of making the models look glamorous and picture-perfect for the covers of glossy fashion magazines and larger-than-life billboards.
Mayes has been styling the stars for more than a decade and says he does not intend to pack up his make-up kit anytime soon. Born in Bronx, New York, he still lives in the 'Big Apple' to be close to the bustling fashion industry. He has dressed and styled icons in both the entertainment and fashion industry such as Oprah Winfrey, Beyoncé Knowles, Mariah Carey, Blair Underwood, Naomi Campbell, Georgianna Robertson and Stacy McKenzie. Mayes visited Jamaica recently where he styled a select group of Saint International models for a photo shoot to develop their portfolios.
Sporting locks and a pair of soft, beautiful grey eyes, Mayes spoke to us about his involvement in fashion over the last 13 years. On the day that we interviewed him, he had been up since 4:00 a.m. to style Saint model Shereen Lawrence's for a photo shoot.
A COMIC BOOK ARTIST
Mayes' mother is an English professor at a New York University while his father is head of the Dietary Department at a hospital in Brooklyn, New York. Given their professions, Mayes was often encouraged by his parents to pursue academic studies, but he was burning with desire to become a comic book artist.
"I've always loved art. I loved painting, drawing and appreciated anything artistic. Knowing that I am this type of person, my parents still supported me in my endeavours."
The young make-up artist said he launched out in the fashion industry while still a student at City College of New York pursuing a pre-law degree. He recalls missing a lot of classes as he was busy styling the hair of female friends for photo shoots or learning about the art of make-up from a friend who would often ask for his assistance.
After scraping through college he was employed in the corporate world for a few months but left shortly after to tend to his new love styling and make-up.
"I haven't had a 9 to 5 job since 1990 and I don't mind as what I now do gives me the freedom to travel as often as I like. I've worked in the corporate world for a brief moment but left as I wasn't cut out for that sort of life. The money that I earn now, some persons don't earn that much in a month. The fashion industry is big business. I know make-up artists earning as much as $8 million per year," he noted.
Owing to the dynamism of the industry, Mayes explained that he continually hones his craft and learning more about the business from the experts.
THE MODEL SEARCH
Choosing models for fashion shows, editorials, advertising campaigns and haute couture "begin at the casting sessions," explained Mayes. "The fashion house or the magazine usually looks for a certain type. So for a girl-next-door look, they would perhaps choose a Tyra Banks and to portray elegance, they would use Naomi Campbell. They also take into consideration, her expression whether she speaks with the eyes, the mouth and the body sort of like acting."
Often models are rail thin, and according to Mayes, there is good reason for this. "Usually designers make a small sketch of their designs and so they make their pieces
that way. Also, it is cheaper to design a size 1 outfit as it uses less fabric than a size 8, so this is basically a dollars and cents decision."
VIEWING PRIVILEGE
As a stylist, Mayes is privileged to see first-hand the designer's collections up to a year before they are publicly released. "Pictures for fashion magazines are usually shot months before, so the model, the clothes and accessories are decided way in advance. For example, the Spring collection from the top designers are already photographed in March and April of this year," he explained, while adding that baby doll dresses is expected to make a comeback next Spring.
When on assignment, Mayes has in his possession anywhere from between US$250,000 to US$1 million worth of clothing and accessories. "So you know then I have to ensure that my bags are well packed and secure as these goods are very costly."
He said he was impressed by the high quality fashion pieces being designed here and encouraged Jamaican fashion houses to release them internationally.
To prospective models, he advised: "In this business, one needs to listen carefully and take instructions well as this is critical in your line of work. It's not just about a great shape and pretty looks, it's also about attitude."
STRIKE THE POSE!
His constant companion is a camera and his true love is photography. There was a time, however, when he dreamt of designing magnificent buildings and perhaps a monument as brilliant as the Taj Mahal in India.
Today, German-born Udo Spreitzenbarta is faced with the reality of waking up in a jungle or a desert to do a photo shoot in less than desirable conditions.
"I got into photography through a friend of mine who was a fashion photographer and so I started helping him out. I later discovered that I really liked photography and so I bought a camera and got into it and forgot about architecture school."
Since discovering his passion in 1993, he has done photo shoots for more than 20 fashion magazine covers and is one of the most sought after photographers in the fashion world. After migrating to New York with one suitcase and a camera demand for his expertise grew. In 1995, he was asked to take pictures for an advertising campaign which also included the giant billboard located in Times Square, New York. The major fashion houses took note of his work and then hired him for their editorial campaigns.
PHOTOGRAPHING CELEBRITIES
"After that big break, I started doing editorials for magazine such as Elle, Harper's Bazaar and Vogue for their international editions. I also did all the Fubu campaign," said Spreitzenbarta. He has also photographed celebrities like Mary J Blige, R. Kelly, Mya, Angie Stone, Wycliffe Jean and Salma Hayek.
A photo shoot for a magazine cover, explained the 37-year-old, can last all day while a catalogue shoot can last up to two weeks, depending on the weather.
Two of his most difficult photo shoots he recalled were taking pictures in the desert of South Africa where the temperature was close to 100 degrees, and the swamps of Louisiana that were infested with alligators and snakes.
"I think I have found my niche and what makes it even better is earning money from what I really love doing."
Mayes putting final touches on Saint International Shereen Lawrence hair before she does her photo shoot.
