Rosemary Parkinson
Freelance Writer
ANYONE WHO has travelled throughout the Caribbean islands and taken a special interest in the traditional foods of the individual islands will notice that cornmeal seems to be prevalent in almost every one.
This is understandable. Cornmeal has formed an important part of the history of these precious islands. Corn, or maize, was a staple of the Amerindians for thousands of years. Research tells us that corn was probably grown between 5000 and 3400 BC in the Tehuacan Valley of Mexico the Amerindians called it 'mahiz' and travelled with it across the seas, planting the commodity as part of their staple.
When the Europeans arrived (according to them, to 'discover' these islands) corn was already here. In fact, it is recorded that when Columbus first tasted 'mahiz' he claimed 'it was most tasty boiled, roasted or ground into flour'. These 'wild' indians, in fact, taught the English how to make 'lob-lolly' or ship's gruel with 'mahiz' this was excellent for those who were emaciated, anaemic or had rheumatic pains. It also had special benefits for those suffering from kidney or liver disease. In fact, the Indians would steep corn in lye to be used as an intestinal anti-spasmodic. Since then, especially in the Caribbean, cornmeal has come into its own in so many ways.
What I have found fascinating is the various ways of preparing it in each island.
JAMAICA
In Jamaica cornmeal although many times libellously labelled 'dog food' is made into 'turned cornmeal'. I have watched many a cook in a home kitchen preparing this dish and it certainly contains just about everything needed for a well-rounded meal. Cornmeal is also used as an ingredient in Jamaican dumplings and is used to make the popular cornmeal porridge.
THE BAHAMAS
In the Bahamas boiled fish, Johnny cake and grits are various traditional breakfast dishes, with grits being made from bleached cornmeal just a little boiling water, a little salt, stir in the cornmeal slowly and cook for about five minutes. Voila! Not exactly an epicurean delight but, hey, who are we to account for the taste of others? Mind you, once mixed up with 'dat boil fish' containing all manner of spices, herbs, peppers, potatoes and butter, the plainness of this particular way of cooking cornmeal disappears and those grits suddenly come into their own. Delicious.
HAITI
In Haiti cornbread is loved by all and is easy to prepare: Two cups of cornmeal, four teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon sugar, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 eggs beaten, 3 tablespoons butter and two cups of milk all combined, placed in a buttered dish and baked at about 425 degrees F. It makes for a superb and healthy accompaniment to soup.
ARUBA
In Aruba Pan Bati or Aruban cornbread is prepared almost the same as above but with four cups of flour and evaporated milk added and the eggs left out. Leftovers are never thrown away. When it's dried out the Pan Bati is cut into strips and fried, served with milk and sugar as oatmeal for breakfast or soaked in eggs with raisins and spices, baked and made into a type of bread pudding.
Kerri Kerri, a fish dish made with Annatto, herbs and seasoning that includes cumin, is also placed on top of Pan Bati that is flattened to look like a pancake, covered with cheese, melted on the grill, and eaten for dinner.
PUERTO RICO
Puerto Ricans use cornmeal for their Surullitos. Now this is a little different, in that the cornmeal is first boiled, cheese added, then made into little cylinder-shaped 'dumplings' and deep fried. This makes a great appetiser or party pleaser.
VIRGIN ISLANDS
In the Virgin Islands Virgin Funghi calls for the cornmeal to be boiled in almost the same way as Bahamian grits, except butter is added. Once finished, it is usually served as an accompaniment to their Kallaloo (yep, spelt with a K) a sort of soup made with salt beef, ham bone, pig's tail, conch fish, crab, okra and spinach. A veritable feast, believe you me.
BARBADOS
Now, in Barbados there's not a Saturday morning that a visit to food vendors in the market will not produce a huge plate of coucou and saltfish that is the real tradition 'though some like stewed lamb, beef or pork with theirs.
Coucou on this island is made with okra, therefore the finished product is smooth and slips down the gullet sweet and easy. Once eaten, there's no doubt that a certain sleeping maladie that is prevalent in the West Indies immediately takes effect, so one has to ensure all pressing matters are dealt with before enjoying.
Bajan Conkies, on the other hand, are a 'sweet' served on this southern island during the Christmas season. It's a mixture of cornmeal, pumpkin, grated coconut and sweet potato with raisins and spices that once made is wrapped in banana leaf much like the 'Blue Drawers' of Jamaica.
TRINIDAD AND MARGARITA ISLAND
In Trinidad and on the island of Margarita (off the coast of Venezuela), cornmeal is used to make Pastelles or Hallacas, respectively. Believe you me, you have not tasted heaven until you have one of them. Both are a cornmeal paste-like patty filled with ground beef or chicken, seasonings, raisins, olives, peppers and wrapped in steamed banana leaf. This is traditionally an early morning Christmas time spicy breakfast, but you just cannot help wondering why these absolutely delightful 'snacks' are just not served year round, especially since they are easily frozen and only needs steaming to make a delicious and hearty snack.
Bleached cornmeal is also used on Margarita island to make Arepas. (Yellow cornmeal, although not traditional can be used too.) Simply made by adding a little salt and hot water to the cornmeal which is then kneaded until it becomes almost a bread-type mixture, rolled into balls, flattened and cooked on an oiled flat iron or baked in the oven, these delicious breakfast breads become whole meals once filled with all manner of things such as fried eggs, ham, sausages, avocado pear, cheese, and chicken. In fact, one can walk into an Arepera a restaurant where Arepas are made and choose your filling from a myriad of delicious selections. Unreal, let me assure you.
For those who still look down on cornmeal as the 'poor man's food', I say phooey to you. In this month's Caribbean Gourmet, published by Wendy Rahamut in Trinidad and distributed in Canada, Crispy Cornmeal and Chili Coated Wings with Coriander Dip takes this amazing staple up several notches. For this reason I present you with the recipe. Enjoy.
Oh, by the way, those of you who hate cornmeal can still benefit from its many uses. Mix with a little water and rub all over the body for deep exfoliating purposes. So there.
Crispy Cornmeal and Chili- coated Wings with Coriander Dip
3 lbs. chicken wings (about 20
wings)
2 lbs. ground chives (scallion)
1 tbsp. minced garlic
1 tbsp. olive oil
1 cup flour
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 tbsp. ground, roasted cumin
1 tsp. salt
2 tsps. black pepper
2 tsps. chili powder
2 eggs
METHOD
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Discard wing tips or divide wings into two parts. Pat dry with paper towels. Combine ground chives with garlic and olive oil, rub mixture over wings. In a flat dish combine flour with cornmeal, cumin, salt, pepper and chili powder. Beat eggs in another flat dish. Dip wings first into flour mixture, then into beaten eggs, then re-dip into flour mixture. Place on oiled baking sheet, and bake wings for 20 minutes, turn and continue baking for 15-20 minutes more until crisp and golden. Serve wings on platter accompanied by dip.
Coriander Dip
1 1/2 cups sour cream
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 cup chopped fresh coriandercup chopped chives (scallion)
1 hot pepper, seeded and chopped
Salt to taste
METHOD
Combine all ingredients and refrigerate until ready to serve.
- Caribbean Gourmet: www.caribuy.com
Most of the recipes mentioned are included in 'Culinaria:The Caribbean', which is available at the Olympia Art Centre on Old Hope Road, opposite the University of Technology.
Rosemary Parkinson continues to be estranged from her Jamaica soon come. Nothing allows you to appreciate
the land you love more than
distance.
CONTRIBUTED
Harriett's cornmeal Coucou and Saltfish.
