PRESSURE COOKERS have been around for a lot longer than you may think. The first appeared in late 17th-century France, but a commercial home product did not emerge in the United States for another 250 years. Immediately after World War II, there was a tremendous demand for the device until too many unfortunate explosions in the kitchen took their toll.
Today pressure cookers are making a comeback. Savvy cooks are rediscovering the joy of speedy pressure cooking, thanks to the newer and safer units. New cookbooks on the subject are popping up, too, such as The Pressure Cooker Gourmet by Victoria Wise (Harvard Common Press, $24.95) and Pressure Perfect
by Lorna Sass (Morrow, $24.95).
"For healthy, home-made fast food, the pressure cooker can't be beat," says Sass, who creates in more than 200 recipes a "two-hour taste in 20 minutes." Her soups, salads, entrees, vegetables and desserts are quick and easy and just as flavourful as their longer-cooking, more time-consuming counterparts.
The Chicken Cacciatore (below), for instance, is a snap and delicious. Cabbage and Potatoes With Kielbasa just three minutes under pressure provides a "fuss-free casual supper." Last-Minute Potato Salad With Lemon-Dill Vinaigrette would be great for those spur-of-the-moment backyard barbecues. A 4-pound brisket takes up to an hour, though, even in the pressure cooker.
Sass also includes such helpful information as suggested variations, timing charts, "troubleshooting" answers, and a directory of pressure cooker manufacturers.
Carrot Bisque With
Vodka and Chervil
This soup from Victoria Wise's The Pressure Cooker Gourmet was inspired by an old carrot quiche recipe.
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter
1 medium-size yellow or white onion, finely chopped
4 large carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/4 cup rice, preferably Arborio
1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper, preferably white
1 cup chicken broth
3 cups water
1 tbsp. vodka
1 tbsp. chopped fresh chervil, for garnish
METHOD
Melt the butter in the pressure cooker over medium heat. Stir in the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to wilt, about 2 minutes. Add the carrots, rice, salt, pepper, broth and water. Lock on the lid and bring to pressure over high heat, about 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit for 10 minutes to finish cooking.
With the steam vent pointed away from your face, gently release any remaining pressure. Let sit until cool enough to handle, then transfer the contents of the pressure cooker to a food processor and puree. Just before serving, reheat and stir in the vodka. Garnish with chervil and serve.
Makes 4 servings.
Chicken Cacciatore
"The rich and hearty taste of this dish belies the ease of preparation," says Lorna Sass in Pressure Perfect. It may be served with rice or mashed potatoes.
1 tbsp. olive oil
2 cups chopped onions or leeks
1 medium green sweet pepper, seeded and finely diced
1/2 cup red wine
10 ozs. button mushrooms, sliced or quartered
3 lbs. bone-in skinned chicken breast halves, thighs or a combination
2 cups good-quality tomato sauce
2 tbsps. tomato paste
1 can (6 ozs.) pitted black olives, drained
2 tbsps. chopped fresh parsley or basil, plus more for garnish (optional)
1/8 to 1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
1/2 cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese, plus more to pass at the table
Salt and freshly ground pepper
METHOD
Heat the oil in a 4-quart or larger cooker. Add the onions and bell pepper and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until the onions soften slightly, about 2 minutes. Stir in the wine and boil until about half evaporates. Scrape up any browned bits sticking to the bottom of the cooker.
Stir in the mushrooms. Set the chicken on top. Cover the chicken with tomato sauce. Do not stir. Plop the tomato paste
on top.
Lock the lid in place. Over high heat bring to high pressure. Reduce the heat just enough to maintain high pressure and cook for 8 minutes. Turn off the heat. Allow the pressure to come down naturally. Remove the lid, tilting it away from you to allow steam to escape.
Stir in the olives, parsley, red pepper flakes (if using), cheese, and salt and pepper, to taste.
To serve, lightly dust each portion with cheese and sprinkle with parsley. Pass extra cheese in a bowl.
Makes 4 servings.
Variation: Substitute skinned, boneless turkey thighs, 7 to 10 ounces each. Timing remains the same.
- Universal Press Syndicate
SAFETY TIP:
Always keep the steam vent pointed away from you during the cooking and afterward, when opening the pot.
LOCAL NOTE
Look for pressure cookers in home and hardware stores. Locally pressure cookers sell for $1,000 and above, depending on size. Home Mart in Stony Hill Square, St. Andrew sells a 4-quart pressure cooker for $1,150 and the 5-quart for $1,350; Home & Things, Old Hope Road and Constant Spring Road has one for just under $1,400.
