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The right seasonings: Netting more flavour for fresh fish
published: Thursday | February 19, 2004

FRESH FISH with just the right seasonings promises a pleasing marriage of flavours. When choosing fish seasonings ­ herb, spice, salt, fruit, vegetable, wine, butter, olive oil, condiment ­ consider the type of fish (lean or oily) and the cooking method (moist- or dry-heat), as well as your personal taste preferences.

Lean, white-fleshed fish such as flounder, sole, cod, rockfish, bass and snapper accept the widest range of seasonings, from subtle to bold. Low in fat, these fish are all good candidates for poaching, steaming or other moist-heat cooking methods in which they cook in liquid or steam infused with seasonings. If prepared using dry-heat methods, they require extra attention to prevent their drying out.

Oily fleshed fish such as trout, salmon, tuna and shark withstand dry-heat cooking (baking, broiling or grilling) better than do leaner varieties. Seasoned marinades or bastes help prevent almost any kind of fish from drying out.

FOR THE BEST TASTE

Other ways to protect lean or oily fish as it bakes, broils or grills is to cover or stuff it with lemon or lime slices, onion or bell pepper rings, sprigs of parsley or other fresh herbs, callaloo or other leafy greens, or seasoned bread crumbs, all of which contribute flavour and colour while helping retain moisture.

Even the most exquisitely seasoned fish will be dry and tasteless if it is overcooked.

While cooking guidelines are useful for estimating purposes, a reliable method for judging when fish is actually done is the opacity test: Toward the end of the cooking time, insert a pointed knife into several areas of the fish. At the outer edges the flesh should be opaque (no longer transparent); at the centre it should be barely translucent and just beginning to flake. At this point the fish should be removed from the heat and allowed to stand three to four minutes while it completes cooking.

According to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, cooking most types of fish or shellfish to an internal temperature of 145 degrees and maintaining that temperature for 15 seconds provides additional assurance that it is sufficiently done to be safe to eat.

SUCCESS TIPS

When baking fish in a conventional oven, always preheat the oven to help ensure even cooking.

The high moisture content of fish makes it cook very quickly in a microwave oven. To prevent overcooking, test fish frequently for doneness and remove it from the microwave oven as soon as the flesh begins to flake. Fish will continue to cook as it stands.

Seasoned Baked Fish

Salt, pepper and lemon, the essence of simplicity in fish seasonings, complement the delicate flavours of fish such as sole, flounder or cod.

1 whole lean fish (3 to 4 lb.), dressed, or 4 fillets or steaks (6 to 8 ozs. each)

1 1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. pepper

Half a lemon, quartered (or 1/4 lime)

Unsalted butter, as needed

1/2 cup water

METHOD

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Rub fish with salt, pepper and lemon. Use unsalted butter to generously grease a large baking dish. Place fish in dish; add water.

2. Grease parchment paper or foil with unsalted butter and place loosely over fish in baking dish.

3. Bake for 20 to 35 minutes; exact baking time depends on thickness of fish.

Serves 4.

SEASONING BASTES FOR FISH

Provencal Blend

These full-flavoured, easily prepared blends are intended for brushing over strong-flavoured oily fleshed fish such as salmon, tuna, swordfish or shark. Each makes enough to season a whole dressed fish (3 to 4 pounds) or four fillets or steaks (6 to 8 ounces).

2 tbsps. dry white wine

1 tsp. chopped fresh tarragon

1 tsp. chopped fresh parsley

1/2 tsp. chopped fresh chives

1/2 tsp. dried thyme

METHOD

Combine and brush over fish before baking, broiling or grilling.

Lemon-Herb Blend

2 tbsps. lemon juice

1 tbsp. lime juice

1/2 tsp. light honey

1 tbsp. minced fresh parsley

1/2 tsp. minced garlic

METHOD

Combine and brush over fish before baking, broiling or grilling, or add to a fish-poaching liquid such as court bouillon, white wine or fish broth.

Pepper

1 tbsp. dry white wine

2 tsps. minced lemon zest

(or 1 tsp. lime zest)

2 tsps. freshly ground

black pepper

1 tsp. freshly ground

white pepper

1/2 tsp. salt

METHOD

Combine and brush over fish before baking, broiling or grilling.

Honey-Ginger Blend

2 tbsps. mild-flavoured honey

1 tsp. grated ginger root

1 clove minced garlic

1 tsp. lemon juice (or 1/2 lime juice)

METHOD

Combine and brush over fish before baking, broiling or grilling.

Cajun Blend

2 tsps. ground black pepper

1 tsp. cayenne pepper

1/2 tsp. apple cider vinegar

1/2 tsp. honey

1/4 tsp. cumin

1/4 tsp. ground coriander

METHOD

Combine and brush over fish before baking, broiling or grilling.

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