Wherever asparagus is highly appreciated, its appearance in the spring of each year is reason enough for a spree.
ASPARAGUS CAN never be too fresh. Pencil-slim or up to half an inch in diameter, the stalks should be firm (never limp) and snap cleanly when broken between the fingers.
Green or white, the spears should look fresh and bright and have tightly closed tips. Green asparagus should have good colour at least two-thirds the length of the stalk.
To prepare the spears for cooking, they can be snapped one by one if they are fresh; each stalk will break at the point where it becomes tender, and any jagged edges can be trimmed. Another method is to peel the stalks from the bottom to the point at which the peel is no longer fibrous but thin and tender.
White asparagus, which is grown without sunlight to produce a delicate flavour, generally requires more aggressive trimming or peeling. For a fancy presentation, the spears can be lined up and the ends trimmed uniformly so that they measure only 3 inches to 4 inches from tip to end.
Rapidly boiling asparagus, uncovered, is the traditional way of cooking it. Bundling the spears into individual portions and tying them near the top and bottom makes them easy to lower in and out of the boiling water.
Some cooks prefer a metal or bamboo steamer over boiling water, or cooking asparagus upright in a deep narrow pot; the boiling water in the bottom of the pot tenderises the tougher stalks while the tender tips steam-cook. A covered frying pan can be used to steam or steam-sauté smaller amounts.
Brushing the spears with seasoned olive oil and broiling or grilling them in a single layer produces an appetising charred appearance and intensifies their flavour.
SUCCESS TIPS
The domestic asparagus harvest runs from March to June.
An asparagus steamer -- a tall, narrow, lidded pot with a wire basket -- is a convenient way to hold the stalks upright while they cook and remove and drain them after cooking.
Named for a village in Brittany where painter Paul Gaugin was an artist-in-residence, this salad is most appealing when made with very fresh asparagus that is lightly cooked and generously dressed while still warm.
Asparagus Pont-Aven
2 tablespoons each white wine
vinegar and lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/8 teaspoon each white pepper and
dried tarragon
1 cup olive oil
2 to 2 1/2 pounds asparagus, washed
and prepared for cooking butter or
Boston lettuce leaves 2 hard-cooked
eggs, finely sliced
METHOD
1. In a medium bowl, combine vinegar, lemon juice, salt, mustard, pepper and tarragon. Using a whisk or fork, gradually beat in oil until smooth and well-combined.
2. Steam prepared spears, covered, over boiling water, or cook in a single layer in a shallow lidded pan in a small amount of boiling salted water just until tender-crisp (about 6 to 8 minutes). Drain well.
3. Line each of 6 shallow bowls or plates with a few leaves of lettuce. Distribute the warm spears among the bowls. Shake or whisk dressing to combine well; drizzle over each serving of asparagus. Scatter hard-cooked eggs over asparagus and serve at once.
Serves 6.
