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Against the grain
published: Thursday | May 6, 2004

Forbidden! Rice so good it was once reserved exclusively for the emperors of China

ACCORDING TO Chinese legend black rice was once reserved exclusively for the emperor, hence the name Forbidden Rice. Those who practise Chinese Medicine will also tell you that black rice is high in iron and other nutrients and aids in the circulation and toning of the blood. Black rice has been commonly grown throughout Asia for aeons and is generally used as a sweet rice. In Thailand, for instance, where it is known as kao niow dahm (rice, sticky and black), black rice is eaten mainly as a dessert, served as a pudding for breakfast or used as 'sweetmeats'. Roadside and market vendors also wrap the rice, cooked in coconut milk, in banana leaves with a 'topping' of choice, and pinned with a bamboo pick ­ allowing buyers to eat and walk.

Despite its popularity in the Far East, black rice is only now getting the attention of foodies in the West and is being experimented with by gourmands.

MORE ABOUT BLACK RICE

Black rice is unmilled and unpolished with the outer husk removed but the bran left on the grain giving it a chewy texture and a nutty flavour.

Beneath the black, the rice is in fact white but this is not seen even in the cooking for then it turns into a gorgeous purple colour.

It takes a little longer to cook than normal rice but it can be helped along by soaking overnight ­ the water will turn to a deep burgundy but do not be concerned, there are no additives in black rice, this is just one of its behaviour patterns.

By mixing cooked white rice with black rice, you can achieve a sort of reddish look to your finished product, adding another dimension of excitement to your meal.

Serve with steamed Chinese green vegetables such as bok choy or gai lan. Its nutty taste also pairs well with lamb.

Unfortunately, black rice is difficult to get in Jamaica, so if you have friends or family coming from abroad, ask them to bring you a couple of pounds so you can experiment. And, of course, Food is giving away a package to a lucky winner out there ... maybe with demand increasing, this delicious rice will find its way into our supermarkets.

KNOW YOUR RICE

Rice comes in long, medium and short-grain varieties. The long grains keep their shape best. Medium grains - shorter and plumper ­ are moist and tender when just cooked, but become stickier as they cool. Short grain rice has an oval shape and chalky white colour. Its stickiness is prized in China and Japan.

White Rice: Regular milled rice, the most common variety, is fluffy when cooked and separates easily. Most white rice is enriched with extra vitamins to make up for the nutrition lost when the husk, bran and germ are removed.

Brown Rice: All rice starts off brown. The colour comes from the grain's natural bran layers. Brown rice is full of fibre, and has a nutty flavour and chewy texture.

Parboiled Rice: Parboiled or converted rice, is steamed and cooked under pressure before milling, forcing the nutrients inside the grain. The result is fluffy grains that remain separate during cooking.

STORING RICE

Uncooked white rice keeps indefinitely, without refrigeration. Once opened, store in an airtight container.

Because of the oil in its bran layers, brown rice should be refrigerated. It keeps six months on the shelf.

Store cooked rice in the refrigerator up to one week, or freeze for six months. Thaw brown rice before using.

FOR PERFECT RICE

Combine 1 cup rice, liquid (see chart below), 1 tsp. salt and 1 tbsp. butter in 2 to 3-quart saucepan. Bring to a boil, stir once or twice, lower heat, cover and simmer for cooking time specified on chart.

Cook rice in water, stock, fruit juice, even coconut milk.

Don't stir simmering rice, the grains will break down and make rice gummy.

If rice isn't quite tender, or hasn't absorbed all the liquid during cooking time, replace lid and cook 2 to 4 minutes longer over low heat. Fluff with a fork.

To keep rice warm, transfer to a baking dish, cover and keep warm in low oven.

Long grain rice triples as it cooks.

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