The ambience of Starapples is homey and charming, but the piece de resistance is the bathroom, says our reviewer.
Starapples Lunch & Dinner,
Take Out & Catering
From J$100 to J$600
Mon. to Thur. 7:30 a.m.- 9 p.m.
Fri. to Sat.: 7:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Sunday Brunch 10 a.m.- 2 p.m.
Phone: 927-9019
Fax: (876) 946-1833
Rosemary Parkinson
Freelance Writer
DIVULGING MY newest little find, as promised, will have to wait until next week. The 'cats and dogs rain' postponed the link needed to complete my story on Indian cuisine. But, have no fear, the delay will not be in vain. Just look out for a fabulous Food next Thursday.
God, however, works in mysterious ways because not being able to travel to 'country' placed Starapples straight into the limelight this week.
One could miss this restaurant were it not for the large car park sign as you go towards Liguanea -- the restaurant being a tiny ways in. The idea of taking an 'oldie but goldie' house on Hope Road, converting it into a restaurant, without modernisation, makes for a comfortable and homey ambience. Kudos of the highest degree must be imparted to the Perkins family on the décor -- your attention to detail is charming. Love the fresh orchids on the tables (please note, those who have a penchant for plastic), the star apple colours of greens and lilacs, the bits and pieces of old-time furniture, and the bay window with its cushions are all inviting and charismatic touches. But, but, but the piece de resistance -- that hallowed ground, that area so many in the restaurant business leave unkept and unattended, that most important little place that can make or break your eatery -- the bathroom.
Hello, I don't believe I have ever seen anything like it. Talk about cute. I could have happily remained in there for the rest of the afternoon -- for the week actually. In fact, I would rent that bathroom, I would live in there locked into bliss forever more. Can you imagine raving so of a bathroom? Well it's worth it. What a blast from the past! I don't want to age myself too dreadfully, but do some of you out there remember when women excused themselves to 'powder their nose, dear' in order to ensure that ugly morsels were not lodged between their teeth. This was when toothpicks were not 'de rigueur'? Or how about making certain that lips were ruby red and inviting, if the evening was one of flirtations and expectations or, on the other hand, used to get away at intervals from a boring companion? Seemed to me bathrooms were inviting then. Well, doubt me if you want but we can now revive those dining staples at Starapples. Me and my bathroom fetish. Ah! Well! We can't all be normal.
JAMAICAN -- WITH A TWIST
Moving along to food now. The menu is about Jamaican cuisine with a little eclectic infusion. For instance, appetisers invite you to taste Pepper Shrimp, Saltfish Fritters, Vegetable Samosas; Entrées, Escoveitched Fish, Sweet & Sour Fish Fillet, Curried Shrimp, Chicken Creole, Stew Peas, Pot Roast Beef and Jerk Pork; Pastas offer Beef Lasagna and Garlic Chicken Fafarle with salads likeLobster and Pineapple or Jerk Chicken. The selection of vegetarian dishes includes Curried Aloo & Channa, Stir Fried Ginger Tofu and Vegetable Rundown while dessert tempt you with Michael's Chocolate Dream Cake, among others.
I chose a fresh and delicious passion fruit juice while nibbling on Spicy Jamaican Jerk Sausages that were honestly amazing. (I may be wrong, but could they have been Arosa, hence their excellence?) My companion had a lovely sour sop Juice and saltfish fritters that were well-made but should have had a lot more saltfish. A little whisper in the ears of the owners -- how about serving a spicy dip with the fritters, even something like a chutney could be different. Also, add a bit of imagination to the dip served with the sausage. Horseradish? Coleman's Mustard? A good jerk sauce? And, please, please, you spoil your lovely 'everyting' by serving this dip in that little plastic container. How about some cute odd ceramic servers?
While waiting for the entrées I interrupted a lovely couple sitting next to us, as is my usual procedure -- hey, the guy was cute and I do have an eye for beauty. Yes, his lady friend was drop-dead-gorgeous too but give this old bag a chance do. Daniel Sale who flies for Air Jamaica Express (Mr. Stewart wha' happen to Port Antonio, sah? The marina and all those hotels and not a plane fi dem?) just happens to love Starapples. He and his companion are Oxtail & Beans peons, claiming the Starapples' Chef's Oxtail is di bes' and that is all they ever order. Thanks for the tip, I shall have to prove dat nex' rounds for by the time that news had reached my ears Ralston, our most pleasant and swift waiter, was moving towards the table with our order.
Stew Peas and Pigtail was my friend's choice, with the Cow foot and Beans being mine. I think those who read me must by now know that I have become somewhat of an expert with 'cookshop' foods and don't make any bones about my tastings. So here's my mind open in its inimitable fashion for all to read: Both dishes were good -- and I mean good and hearty -- but just lacking a little in spice and that delicious 'oomph' that, say, Rotty up in Stony Hill gets when he cooks up his Jamaican fare. (I swear that man should open a cookshop school). It's about that deep dark brown spiciness -- that taste difficult to describe but lives in your head forever once you've been privy to it. As I said, I have not in any way disclaimed the Starapples flavour. What we had was indeed good but I would like to be able to describe it as excellent, mouth-watering, superb. How about that? In the immortal words of our Grand Dame of Caribbean Cooking, Miss Norma Shirley "take it up a notch, take it up a notch". It's a simple t'ing.
For dessert we tried the Sweet Potato Pudding and the Bread Pudding in Rum Sauce, the latter being indeed different -- slices of hard dough bread baked in cinnamon and spices and topped with an intoxicating rum butter sauce. These were excellent.
I highly recommend Starapples, it is refreshing and lovely and I will be back. Just a 'begging' note, do not make the mistake that other restaurateurs so often make the moment they get popular -- leave their business unattended. Owning a restaurant is a serious business that requires (unfortunately) undivided attention. Take note Sugardaddies. Take note Sakura at The Hilton. Wake up and smell the roses. Return visits to these two once fine eateries have been, to say the least, disappointing. Apart from news spreading like drum in Cockpit Country, you know how dis column stay.
By the way - had a most lovely Duck in Raspberry Sauce at Cassons last Friday and returned Sunday evening with my publisher Nick Gillard (MacMillans) -- in Jamaica for the much celebrated Calabash Festival in Treasure Beach, St. Elizabeth. We had great nosh under the stars outside on Cassons' new deck. It was pleasant and relaxing. Michael, thank you for the excellent and caring service. Gary - get those steaks in this week for I'm coming.
Rosemary Parkinson appears to have disappeared. The police and fire departments are investigating a bathroom door at Starapples that seems stuck in place, refusing to open. More news as this story unlocks.
CAPTIONS
Rosemary Parkinson Photos
DessertsA: The Sweet Potato Pudding and Bread Pudding in Rum Sauce were excellent.
The good and hearty Cow Foot and Beans lacked that extra little oomph that would've pushed it over the top to excellent.
The ambience of Starapples is homey and charming, but the piece de resistance is the bathroom, says our reviewer.
Jerk Sausage and Saltfish Fritters.
PIC starapdetails: Kudos to the owners of Starapples for their attention to details. The fresh orchids on the tables, the star apple colours of greens and lilacs, the bits and pieces of old-time furniture, and the bay window with its cushions are all inviting and charismatic touches.
