Clive Anderson - AT THE DERMATOLOGIST 'Washing our bodies with hot water and harsh soaps removes the surface layer of oils on the skin and promotes water loss.'
DRY SKIN is a very common problem. An informal survey indicates that nearly 80 per cent of persons complain of dry skin, with a large proportion experiencing itchy skin after a bath. Dry skin results from a lack of water in the outer compacted layer of skin cells the stratum corneum. When it becomes dehydrated this layer loses its flexibility and becomes cracked and dry. The cracked skin is no longer the impenetrable barrier as in the case of healthy skin. Irritant substances, allergens and micro-organisms are able to penetrate into the body.
Water loss from the skin is increased in hot, dry weather. The cool dry air of air-conditioned buildings also promotes water loss. With increasing age, the skin's ability to retain moisture is reduced, especially in the over-50 age group.
Another important factor in promoting water loss from the skin is our bathing practices. Washing our bodies with hot water and harsh soaps removes the surface layer of oils on the skin and promotes water loss. Scaly skin arises when the dead cells in the outer layer of the skin no longer fall off as single cells, invisible to the naked eye, but in rafts or sheets of cells which we see as scales. This occurs, as in dry skin, the cells do not detach easily from each other.
The Webster's Dictionary defines a moisturiser as a substance that imparts or restores moisture to something, to supply moisture. A better working definition of a moisturiser is an agent designed to make the skin softer and more pliant by increasing its hydration. Basically, moisturisers carry out two main functions to occlude the skin with a layer of oils, thus slowing water loss and increasing the
moisture content of the skin, and secondly,
to increase the water holding capacity of
the skin by means of substances called
humectants.
Moisturising products can be split into five categories from the most moisturising to the least moisturising.
Oleaginous products these will feel unpleasant on all but the driest skin. Petrolatum and mineral oils are examples of these products.
Water in oil emulsions are oil-based products containing predominantly oil with water added. Examples are cold cream or cleansing cream.
Oil in water emulsions water is the base with oil added. These products are first-line treatments for persons with mildly dry skin. Most products on the market fall into the category.
Oil-free emulsions most useful for
persons with mildly oily to mildly dry skin.
Oil-free moisturising
products are used in patients with oily skin that is dry in terms of moisture.
Some persons experience burning or stinging from certain moisturisers. Often this is due to skin irritation caused by additives such as fragrances in the moisturiser. Choose a fragrance-free moisturiser. Allergic reactions to moisturisers are rare. Where they occur, the most common sensitiser is the preservative added to the product to extend shelf life. Choose a moisturiser that is labelled
hypo-allergenic.
Folliculitis is an inflammation of hair
follicles caused by an occlusive moisturiser. Some moisturisers may aggravate acne or cause dermatitis. Choose a non-comedogenic moisturiser.
Apply the moisturiser all over the skin, especially to itchy areas. Apply frequently, four to six times daily. Apply within three minutes of bathing.
The frequent use of a moisturiser is useful in the management of a wide variety of skin diseases from eczema to psoriasis.
Additionally, moisturisers eliminate scaly skin. Moisturiser use is important to the maintenance of good skin health in both men and women.
The regular application of a moisturiser for both men and women should be a part of our normal regime.
Dr. Clive Anderson is a dermatologist and venereologist; email: yourhealth@gleanerjm.com.
