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Stabroek News

HOT TAMALES
published: Thursday | March 10, 2005

Rosemary Parkinson, Freelance Writer

THE STORY of the 'discovery' of Cuba runs much the same as that of several islands in the Caribbean that Columbus touched. First the Amerindians, then Columbus and his Spanish conquistadors then, on some islands, the English and the French fighting to remove the Spanish or just plain claim islands for themselves.

The Caribbean was of such natural beauty and bounty that everyone wanted a piece. Cuba was indeed fought for in the same way, and the capital city of Havana was built as a fort by the Spaniards to keep the rest of Europe and the ensuing lot of cunning pirates at bay ­ the latter being interested in the gold, pearls, hides and sugar that Spanish ships were known to be carrying between the Americas, Cuba and Spain.

During all these wars Cuba was known as 'La Siempre Fiel Isla De Cuba' because the island remained loyal to Spain. Other names given to it by the Spanish were 'The Jewel of the Spanish Crown', 'Pearl at the Heart of the Caribbean' and 'Key to the New World'.

HEMINGWAY, CROCODILE MEAT AND MORE

Now Cuban cuisine is another wonder. Let's first put one, believe it or not, pretty delicious but different dish aside by talking about that first. In the Zapata Peninsula, crocodile meat is reared for their hide and their meat, the latter being marketed as 'exotic', with crocodile stew being a favourite in these parts. Otherwise, the cuisine follows a Spanish tradition with influences from the Amerindians, Spanish, Africans and French.

Havana's La Floridita restaurant had the likes of well known author Ernest Hemingway literally licking his fingers. In fact, the Gran Plato Hemingway (Hemingway's Great Plate) is named after him and is all about grilled lobster tails, jumbo shrimps and fish fillet served with Cuban sauce and vegetables.

The Tropicana, on the other hand, has been a legend since 1939. Set in a tropical rain forest on 10 acres of land it has been compared to Las Vegas and The Lido in Paris with beautiful costumed women amazing patrons in this "paradise under the stars" while dining takes place.

HOT TAMALES

A favourite starter is tamales ­ cornmeal wrapped in corn husks, brought to the table piping hot and filled with ham or pieces of salt pork. Tamales are a Cuban must and are also sold on street corners as a snack. Soups are an integral part of the main meal, the favourite being Black Bean Soup, or Sopa De Queso, which is a cheese soup.

Then lavish amounts of roast pork (Cerdo Asado); chicken, such as Pollo Asado al Jugo (Roast Chicken Au Jus); or fish come next, depending on the area of Cuba and availability. Morros y Cristianos (Moors and Christians) is the national dish and this consists of black beans and rice usually served with the main meal and accompanied by fried plantains, yucca (cassava) and a small salad.

Fruit juices are a must in the Cuban diet with cane juice being highly favoured, while desserts consists of a variety of flans ­ Coco Quemado (literally translated it means burned coconut but it's really a delicious coconut pudding); Braso Gitano (a custard-filled roll); and then there's Cucuruchu, a mixture of coconut, fruits and cocoa pressed into a cone shape and wrapped in a banana leaf.

Naturally, Helado Coppelia, the favourite ice cream of every Cuban, is served everywhere from the cities to the villages.

Cuban coffee is always served and is available at every restaurant, bar and corner stall. Cubans are huge coffee drinkers with beverage served strong and in tiny cups, usually accompanied by ice water. The Mojito, a rum and soda drink, is almost as traditional as the famous Santa Cruz three-year Silver Label Light that it is made with.

Put on some Salsa music, have a Mojito, get into that kitchen and bring a bit of Cuba into your home with these recipes. Or get

a little little touch of Cuba right here in Jamaica at the El Company Gallo in Montego Bay, to be exact.

Buen Provecho!

Pierna De Cerdo Asada Al Jugo

One leg of pork of your choice with the outer skin

The juice of three limes

1 cup sour orange juice

5 cloves of garlic - finely chopped

3 onions - finely chopped

1 tsp. of black pepper

1 tsp. of cumin powder

tsp. of powdered oregano

3 tsp. salt

1 large baking dish.

METHOD

1. Turn oven onto 200ºF.

2. Mix the lime and orange juice, garlic, onions, black pepper, salt, cumin and oregano in a blender. Remove and place in a bowl.

3. Cut holes into the leg of pork through the open side. Do not cut the outer skin. Remove half of the seasoning mix and set aside - ensuring that the holes reach deep into the pork, fill with half of the seasoning. Place into oven for appropriate cooking time according to weight
(20 minutes for each pound), using the juices to marinate the roast and leaving 20 minutes for the final dish.

4. Then place the remaining seasoning mixture over the entire pork. Bring oven to 300ºF. for colour and leave for final 20 minutes.

5. Remove roast from oven, peel skin and cover in juices from the pan. Slice and serve.

Tamales Company Gallo

25 whole fresh corns

(cornmeal can be substituted)

Water to cover corns

2 strips bacon - finely chopped

2 slices ham (optional)

2 cloves garlic ­

finely chopped

2 onion or escallion ­

finely chopped

4 tomatoes - finely chopped

Salt to taste

Black pepper to taste

Olive oil for frying

METHOD

1. Place pot with water on fire and bring to boil. Lower heat and keep hot.

2. Peel the corn keeping the inside leaves. Remove kernels from the corn. Grind or blend until fine with a mash consistency, add a little warm water if necessary.

3. In a small frying pan fry the bacon, garlic, onion, tomato, salt and pepper. Mix in with the corn mash.

4. Place two husks of the corn together to form a long boat-like receptacle. Place 4 tablespoons of the corn mix onto the leaves. Close together and tie in the same way as Blue Drawers is done. (See photo.) Place into boiling water and simmer for 30 minutes.

5. Remove from water, drain, place on plate. Untie the tamale. Drizzle with Salsa Cubana and serve.

Salsa Cubana

1 clove Garlic - finely chopped

1 onion - finely chopped

1 escallion ­ finely chopped

5 tomatoes ­ finely chopped

1 sweet pepper ­

finely chopped

scotch bonnet ­ deseeded

and finely chopped

teaspoon cumin powder

teaspoon black pepper

cup red wine

2 tablespoons olive oil

Method

Place oil in a pan until hot. Add all ingredients except wine into pan and fry for a few minutes until onion and garlic become soft. Add wine and allow to reduce. This Salsa is used to garnish the tamale.

'I have never seen a more beautiful place ... (the island) has such marvellous beauty that it surpasses all others in charms and graces as the day doth the night in Ulster. I have been overwhelmed at this sight of so much beauty that I have not known how to relate it ?'

From the ship's log of the Santa Maria, off the island of Cuba, Christopher Columbus 27th to 28th October, 1492.

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