Keisha Shakespeare, Freelance Writer
Chef Sampath Balapatabendi
Ackee is to Jamaica what the hamburger is to the States, pizza to Italy, and fish and chips to the Brits.
Nothing says Jamaica more than the island's national fruit. However, if you think that ackee must always hug up
saltfish, then you're stuck in time. Yes, ackee and saltfish pick up, ackee and saltfish with breadfruit, and rice and peas are
classics, but these days ackee plays a more versatile role
in the kitchen.
If you're sweet on ackee we've got recipes from a Sri Lankan chef who has fallen hard for the
black-eyed beauty.
WHO WOULD have thought that ackee could be used to make pudding, patty, bread and gizzarda? Sampath Balapatabendi did and he's not even Jamaican.
A pastry chef at Grand Lido Braco in Trelawny, Balapatabendi, is from Colombo, Sri Lanka.
The 35-year-old came to Jamaica last May and bumped into the ackee and the two have been
inseparable since. The colourful fruit attracted
his attention right away, reminding him of the cashew fruit back home.
Chef Balapatabendi realised that ackee cooked with saltfish is the national dish, but wondered what else could be done with it. " I thought why not make ackee as a dessert. However, no one agreed with me. In fact, they were shocked
especially the staff at Grand Lido Braco."
DETERMINED
Despite the negative feedback chef Balapatabendi says he was determined to cook up
a few new ackee recipes. He has since come up with ackee pudding, made with a cornmeal base. The ackee is blended and folded into the cornmeal
mixture to create the new ackee invention.
"When I made the ackee pudding it came out great and I wanted it to be more favourable, so I made a white rum sauce to go with it. However, everyone was scared to try it. Some people even said I was trying to kill them. They reluctantly tried it after I forced them to. When they tasted it they liked it, and so I put it out on the buffet for guests to try and I got good responses."
The chef was so pleased with his creation that he decided to try other ackee delicacies, coming up with ackee gizzarda, bread and patty.
"I made the ackee gizzarda just the same as the coconut gizzarda except I added ackee. The staff was (again) reluctant to try it, but they did and they liked it. When I made the ackee patty I had to lie to them. I told them it was mango patty so they tried it and loved it."
Chef Balapatabendi's most recent ackee
adventure has resulted in Ackee Cheesecake and Ackee Mousse Cake. (See recipes below)
FIRST FOOD MEMORY: When I was 10 years old I made a gum paste. This is made out
of icing sugar and gluten. I used the gum paste to decorate a cake and everyone liked it. At this age
I also started making my birthday cakes.
FOOD PHILOSOPHY: I strive for new
creations, therefore I like to try different things.
FOOD YOU COULDN'T LIVE WITHOUT: Rice cooked with coconut milk (soft like mashed potato), curried chicken, fish and callaloo.
FOOD YOU HATE: I don't hate any food because I like to try new creations with food.
KITCHEN/CUPBOARD CONFESSION: All the spices that I have brought are from Sri Lanka.
GET COOKING WITH ACKEE
Ackee Mousse Cake
14 eggs (white)
11 1/2 oz sugar
46 oz whipped cream
23 oz ackee puree
1 1/2 gelatine (melted)
2 (8 inches) plain cake
circles (rings)
METHOD
1. Cover the eight-inch moulds with aluminium foil and place plain cake in the mould.
2. Puree the ackee and set aside.
3. Make a meringue with egg whites and sugar.
4. Add the melted gelatine in the meringue.
5. While mixing add the ackee puree.
6. Fold with whipped cream.
7. Pour the mixture in the preparation moulds and freeze until set.
Ackee Cheesecake
17.8 oz ackee
8.8 oz ice cream
35 oz cream cheese
8.8 oz sugar
7 eggs (each)
Base:
8.8 oz biscuit crumbs
125g melted butter
METHOD
1. Mix melted butter and biscuit crumbs.
2. Cover two (8 inch) rings with aluminium foil.
3. Put the crumbs mix into the rings and press them to make a base.
4. Mix sugar and cream cheese.
5. Add eggs.
6. Add ice cream.
7. Fold in the chopped ackee.
8. Pour the mixture into the prepared mould.
9. Bake in a moderate oven at 325ºF 350ºF.
Fiery Ackee
& Mackerel Toss
1 dozen ackees, boiled
1 onion, cut diagonally
1 sweet pepper, chopped
2-3 plum tomatoes, diced
1 stalk of celery, chopped
(optional)
1 clove garlic, minced
Thyme
1 scotch bonnet pepper
1/2 tsp. hot pepper sauce
1/2 tsp. curry
2 tbs. corn oil
1 cup canned mackerel, drained & flaked
METHOD
1. Heat oil in a large skillet.
2. Add curry, onion, thyme, and garlic tossing continuously.
3. Add remaining vegetables, adding ackees last. Keep tossing until flavours are released and blended.
4. Add mackerel and hot
pepper sauce; cover and allow to heat through for approximately one minute.
5. Garnish with one teaspoon finely chopped sweet pepper and a sprinkle of black pepper.
Serving Suggestion: Serve with fried dumplings, fried bammy or green plantains.
