Rosemary Parkinson, Freelance Writer
Starting from the bottom clockwise: Neuo pd prik, seewrong mou toun het hom, Thai pepper sauce, lychee martini, chicken teriyaki. - Photos by Rosemary Parkinson
Lemon Grass Restaurant, Swept Away Resort
Norman Manley Blvd., Negril
Evening Pass 6:00 p.m. until
1:00 a.m. US$75
Seating up to 9:00 p.m.
Phone: 957-3256 or 957-4937
EASTER HAS come and gone but this land is still in the throes of celebrations. Between Carnival and spring break, one wonders whether we will ever get back to normal around here.
My email has been inundated with all kinds of Carnival fever parties with names like Blocko Ambassadors, Over The Hill and Jokers Wild J'ouvert. Hmmm. Jamaica Carnival has seen me once, when Sparrow did a show a good few years ago.
As for spring break. Margaritaville, Montego Bay and Negril seem to be awash with the 'maddies' from 'foreign' whose only focus seems to be getting inna di waters. Ahhh! To be young and crazy again.
I took a visiting 'Bajan' (Barbadian) friend to show off Negril's seven miles of beach and the party frenzy. Negril Beach waters no longer being what they were, Baje wanted to know where the crystal clear was but was suitably impressed with the idea of the seven-mile party. I know Bajans will be hearing all about Jamaica from my trusted friend.
After a quick lunch at Norma's at SeaSplash; drinks at Pirates Cave Bar & Grill on the West End; a 'near' sunset overpowered suddenly by cloud and lots of cliff-diving by our local daredevils (Rick's Café still being closed after Hurricane Ivan), we made our merry way to Swept Away Resort for dinner at the new Thai Restaurant where Satien Doungmanee has been the specialty chef for some five months.
DIVINE LYCHEE VODKA MARTINIS
Lemon Grass Restaurant, set on the upper floor of the main dining room, is indicative of the thought this resort puts into its atmosphere. As you walk through the 'Thai Gate' the most gorgeous couch, partially covered in misty white voile, attracts your attention. I can tell you one sit on that and I would have had to be peeled off. Talk about inviting!
We were led to our table on the balcony and under the stars, overlooking the swimming pool and the bay by the maitre d' who introduced us to Pete our waiter.
What a waiter he turned out to be. Before we knew it, divine lychee vodka martinis were placed before us and we were perusing the small but tempting menu.
I took in the rest of the décor with much pleasure. Thai lanterns gave off just enough light for romanticism; black tables with Asian centre throws of deep red; candlelight; and, would you believe that God was more than good to us by produ-cing a moon that was so large and huge it made our hearts tremble?
Okay, okay, this is not about romance and love and stars and moons, it's about the food. Sad, eh? All the opportunities and, what? Work and more work! Hee! Hee!
We began with the appetiser platter for two. It had various Thai morsels such as Crispy Fried Vegetarian Roll - divine; Soft Rice Paper Chicken Roll; cold slivers of tender chicken and red sweet peppers wrapped in rice paper - subtle and enjoyable; and Coconut Shrimp (my Baje is an expert on shrimp, or so he says, and loved these. I have to mention though that since his trip to Coconuts in Ocho Rios nothing has really compared according, to him).
My favourites were the Fried Pork Dumplings and the Lettuce Wrap. Not to be forgotten was the absolutely incredible Chicken Satay served on wooden skewers. The Peanut and Coconut and the Spicy Sweet Chilli Sauces used for dipping were simply exotic. With enough food on this tasting platter to feed an army another martini was required to open the appetite for de res'.
CENTRELINE: A FUSION OF THAI & ASIAN CUISINE
Tom Yang and Tom Jued woon sen were our soups. The first means Hot & Sour with Onion, Tomato and Mushrooms served with a choice of Shrimp, Beef, Chicken. Yep, shrimp again. It was excellent. The latter, Vermicelli with Julienne Vegetable with a touch of Coriander. It was equally perfect.
Salads are a must, apparently, after soups in the Thai realm of things. (By the way, maybe I should explain that Chef Doungmanee explains that his cuisine is a sort of Thai-Asian mystery. I saw it as a fusion of all that is good.)
We were presented with Yam mou yan - Spicy Grilled Pork Loin with Cucumber, Onion, Tomato and Lettuce that had a fabulous dressing made of lemon juice, chilli, fish sauce and a touch of sugar. My friend had Salad Pak roummit - a mixed garden salad that included sweet potato with a peanut dressing. Lovely.
By the time entrees came we thought we were 'Thaied' out. But being the sort who just adore good nosh we plunged right into a Neuo Pd prik. Sorry folks, but that is the name and I can assure you -- yes, it did produced several giggles particularly since I was with a male companion. However, despite what the sound implies, it simply was Tenderloin of Beef served with Sweet Peppers, Onions in an Oyster Sauce. My shrimp expert could not bring himself to eat more shrimp so he had the Seewrong mou toun het hom. And he did not See Wrong. This Pork Spare Ribs covered in Black Mushrooms, sprinkled with coriander and drizzled with chili plum sauce was made mass of, as they say down in Trini country. Entrees were served with fluffy Jasmine rice sprinkled with finely chopped scallion with plenty of my favourite Thai chili sauce for that extra burn on the side.
Now, dessert was ridiculous but the moon had got to our heads. That's all I can figure. We probed into all three -- mint ice-cream with mixed fresh fruits (refreshing); crispy pineapple with a fruit salad (amazing); and the real piece de resistance - Khanom Towy - sweet potatoes in coconut and sugar (a sort of Thai Crème Brulee). Need I say more about all these Thai Epicurean delights except that Dr. Vendryes is not to hear about this. I had to starve myself the following day to get back into the correct weight, according to his strictest of orders .
Yeah right! And a wink! wink!.
Grateful thanks to restaurant manager Dwight Powell and his team for an evening that was, to say the least, most delightful. Let me not forget Executive Chef Stefan Statt for the whisper into my ear about Lemon Grass.
Rosemary Parkinson was last seen on the new Spanish Town By-Pass J'ouverting from Montego Bay. She' s walking good. Bless.
