Rosemary Parkinson, Freelance Writer
The Coconut Cream Fish was divine and those Cool Running's festivals are the most cool on the island.
Cool Running's Beach Bar & Restaurant
Long Bay, Portland
Phone: 387-9305
Open: Monday to Sunday (closed on public holidays)
Hours: 10:00 a.m. until...
World Music always in the waves. Information on Cabanas available.
JAMAICA'S EASTERN coastline beckons to those seeking private nooks and crannies for some peace of mind, as well as local and international "wave riders".
Surfing the waves began in Jamaica in the 1960s but has increased in popularity with the Jamaican Surfing Association pushing to get more recognition. Billy Wilmot, actor and reggae artiste, began the country's first surfing club 'Jamnesia' his children have a particular affinity to the sport and some compete internationally. Today, there is a tight-knit group of surfers who hit the waves at various spots around the island. If you are an early bird you might quietly, and I mean quietly, watch as they ride out in the Palisadoes area of east Kingston and spots in Portland and St. Thomas. It's a sight to see believe you me young bodies in motion with 'di ocean'.
You might rightly ask why I am suddenly so interested in surfing. Has this food reviewer taken to the waves as her diet is doing so well? (Hint, hint). Well, I'm going to leave that part of my sporting activities to your imagination. Suffice it to say a surfer, christened by me as Mr. Drop Dead Gorgeous (his real name is 'hush-hush' for fear he might incur the wrath of his counterparts) whispered 'sweet nothings' in my ear and I took heed.
Now, what you will not be allowed to imagine, is my newest little find. I do beg
pardon to all those who hold this little spot in great reverence. I know that advertising it to the world is like creating the ultimate sin, but I did murmur it to the wind during my travels with the prestigious food magazine Bon Appetit Magazine a few weeks ago, so why not detail it further now, eh?
SURFING FOR FOOD
Okay. Okay. To appease the spirits of the 'Surfing Universe', I appeal to all to please, please understand that Long Bay, Portland, is to be respected. The beach is lovely for a day's outing so keep it clean. The seas are gorgeous, ensure the waters remain pristine. Great waves are few and surfing enthusiasts spend hours on the lookout for the perfect one. If you are a 'new' surfer be mindful of the locals who might feel a certain way if you just jump on the 'their' wave. Wave protocol is heavily required when surfing all 'local' waters, but Long Bay is extra special. Let us all keep it so.
With that environmental speech out of the way, I'm off to surf for food. Right on the beach at Long Bay is Cool Running's, a glorious thatched roof, intimate spot.
Alain Hottat was born in Zaire, Africa, (of Belgian descent) and spent his formative years there before moving to Brussels, the Belgian capital. As a young man his career went the way of photography with a special leaning to capturing the mood of musicians. Tired, exhausted and a little overwhelmed by his life in the fast lane, Hottat came to Jamaica for a holiday. Yep! How many times have I told this story? The rest, is history.
"The smell in the atmosphere brought back childhood memories of Africa. I was so excited I talked to anyone I met. I think they thought I was mad," he recounted.
A COOL BIRTH
To cut a long story short, Mr. Zaire found Portland. Loved Portland. Met musicians. Joined band called Tornado, played around Portland for fun and was christened Skanka, for he 'skanks' on stage. Loved cooking. Became interested in island cuisine and helped a Rastafarian friend in his food business. Spent time at Chill Out Beach Bar. Became Food & Beverages Manager at old marina. Met owner of beach bar at Long Bay. Made negotiations, leased it. Friends helped financially in a community effort. Cool Running's was born.
In true Jamaican 'stylee', somewhere along the line, Skanka became the father of three beautiful daughters Sheba 12, Christina 6 and Maya 4. They are the "lights of my life", he will tell you. Hottat had found his Shangri-La.
Parking near the little cabanas that dot the beach, we made our way to the little hut that sits comfortably near coconut trees, far enough from the shore not to disturb the coastline. On arrival, Skanka came out to greet us with such a warm embrace, I thought I had known him all my life. Before I knew what, little tiny pizzas came flying out of the kitchen in the hands of Carlington Stewart, a young man that any restaurateur would want to have on staff.
"Jamaicans always know how to cook but Skanka is di one dat bring me fully," he explained when asked about his unbelievable pizzas. Skanka, on the other hand, noted that Carlington was a natural for learning. Those miniature seafood pizzas attested to that.
MELT-IN-YOUR-MOUTH
As I sat sipping my 'diet water', I watched 'Skanka's' daughter, all of six years old, slapping dominoes on the table next to me, beating the swimsuits off a young visitor from Africa and her Belgian boyfriend. The couple was in tears later as they said goodbye to Cool Running's and Jamaica, to return to Europe that evening.
I glanced quickly at the menu and Skanka gave me some tips.
"Our Grilled Escoveitch is good, also the Sweet & Sour Fish. A lot of people like the Calamari Fritters (little rings served with a home-made cocktail sauce), it has a lot of garlic. And the Hawaiian Shrimp is very nice and we make a good festival. You know you have to taste.
"Carlington, run quick and make Rosemary some Coconut Cream Fish and put some festival."
There was no discussion. I was hooked, line and sinker and Cool Running's would not let me go. The Coconut Cream Fish was divine and we came to the conclusion that those Cool Running's festivals are the most cool on the island. Melt in your mouth goodness.
Portland and Cool Running's will see me this coming week but before I leave I must tell you that Skanka organises multicultural events at Cool Running's. There is drumming, poetry (Mutabaruka chills sometimes with fellow poets) and, according to Skanka, 'Fool Moon Parties' are held. Fool? Sorry, forgot to ask exactly what that means. But you can.
If you are seeking to experience a world of peace, harmony and cooperation, then "what works" and "what does not work" would be measured against what you're seeking. Currently you are not using this measurement; otherwise you would never do the things you are doing to this world. - Adapted from Neale Donald Walsch - The New Revelations.
Note: O'Keefe Gocool, a customer care agent, has finally shown me that Cable & Wireless can do a great job in serving the customer. At great odds he, and his supervisor Marvin Stuart, were able to have a system installed for my Internet service (desperately required in my line of work) in excellent time. Thank you to all involved.
