Rosemary Parkinson, Freelance Writer
Marla Mandrie, the smiling waitress at Kabana Restaurant & Garden Bar. - PHOTOS BY ROSEMARY PARKINSON
12 Hope Road, Kingston 10
Phone: (876) 908-4005
Open: Monday to Sunday, noon until 11:00 p.m.
Price of meal described: J$906.25
WHEN YOU stay away for awhile you forget the amount of traffic and the hustle and bustle of Kingston. I just love Kingston makes you feel alive, and I'm not the only one who thinks this way. The April 13 issue of Metro, a free newspaper for people riding New York subway trains, says: "Jamaica's capital has long suffered from a reputation for being something of a Godforsaken war zone where tourists get mugged, maimed or murdered. And, to be sure, there are still some areas where one shouldn't bring a fanny pack, but overall, the city is safer and more tourist-friendly than ever."
Wow! Well, mi dears, who would have thought it. Dem in foreign, overseas and abroad, are only now catching what I have been preaching. The writer, Bill Schultz, mentions The Courtleigh Hotel as your best bet for bed, its restaurant, Alexander's, "offers snapper, shrimp and steak so good you might not want to venture down from its cliff-side grounds". Must say, I will have to check out Alexander's. Didn't know there were cliff-side grounds on Knutsford Boulevard but, hey, anything is possible.
Mr. Schultz continues: "But fight that urge and run over to Norma On The Terrace. The city's nicest restaurant is also the best looking. It is nestled within the elegantly restored Devon House. Famed Chef Norma Shirley offers up an ever-changing menu of crabmeat, conch, smoked pork and lobster." I agree.
There are also mentions of Quad and Asylum (New Kingston) as "ubber-funky clubs". I also agree. Friends On The Deck (Trafalgar Road) is described as an "up-notch outdoor watering hole situated under a mango tree".
Sean Paul apparently loves Pepper's (Waterloo Road), and Escape in North Kingston with the Touring Society of Jamaica and the Bob Marley Museum (Hope Road) get a big-up as well as the Red Stripe Tour.
Aloun Assamba, "the highly popular Minister of Industry, Tourism and Entertainment" is quoted: "My advice is to go to Hellshire Beach, pick out your own fish, and have them fry it while sitting out and feeling the breeze".
I (and thousands of other Jamaicans) definitely agree, but we do wonder about the entertainment part of the title.
HALLELUJAH FOR KABANA
Now for a restaurant in the Half-Way Tree area that, had Mr. Schultz visited, might have forced him into writing two pages instead of one for Metro. Bet you think at last I have found somewhere that has some faults, eh? Bet you are wondering what next is going to come up in my writing, eh? Well, sorry folks, but once again and I am so excited to say that I have found a spot that is an edifying tranquil botanical garden right almost inna Half-Way Tree square. Plus, it's the source of some great Jamaican fare. Hallelujah! Hallelujah!
Once I spotted the new Kabana sign on Hope Road, I swerved quickly to enter the car park, nearly causing an accident. I only heard the cuss words oming from inna di street as I was jumping out of the car. Then I entered a world of green, embracing the cutest of little outdoor restaurants. The bar is built around a thick tree trunk that hosts outside of its roof, a most magnificent royal mango tree. Instead of finding itself cut down in the line of progress, it was allowed to be part and parcel of the design and of the building itself. I was already enamoured. These people obviously love nature as I do.
Settling myself, my eyes were filled with the glory of first the water feature (that looks like it has been there for years); the beautiful flowers; and fruit trees banana, orange, almond, ackee, sugar cane, ginger lilies, orchids. As I became more acquainted with the place, I noticed the ceramic chimes, the bird feeders, as well as the mosaic on the table tops. I wondered why our people cannot see the vision of building with nature instead of against it. I mean, right close to my table there was a june plum tree with fruits hanging from it. I was in awe from the moment I sat down until I left the property. Kabana is truly a testament of a restaurant with a vision peace and quiet right in the heart of one of the busiest roads in Kingston.
All I could hear was the chirping of the birds that dropped in to see 'wha gwaan' and that lovely tinkling of wind chimes. Although there was music at the bar, it was at such a perfect pitch I could actually just ignore it. Unbelievable.
THE SMILING WAITRESS
I started with a divine pea soup that required nothing -- not even my mandatory shaking of salt and addition of pepper. Next, I ordered the roast pork and requested that it be accompanied with the Coconut Herbal Rice and stir-fried vegetables.
Marla Mandrie, my waitress, brought everything with a big welcoming smile, and that's what I like, smiling beautiful people around my food. My late request for chopped fresh Scotch Bonnet arrived so fast I was able to place it on the food before I began my meal. The pork was tender and perfect and the rice subtle and delicious. The crunchy veggies, consisting of purple and white cabbage, sweet peppers, broccoli and pak choi, were perfect. Oh, goodness, I nearly forgot the fried plantain. Hello, talk about fabulous. It was crispy on the outside and melt-in-the-mouth on the inside. Delightful. I begged for a little curry goat gravy, by the way, and that was superb.
Two tiny 'thingies': 1: The gravy had too much ketchup (a minor fault and one easily rectified) and, 2: Any hope of cloth napkins?
There were three desserts on the menu. I know. I know. Definitely not to have those. Sorry Dr. Vendryes, but I ordered a slice of Black Forest just to check it out. Only had the tiniest of bites. I swear. I owe it to my readers, sah. It was, fine.
After my meal I found out from Tamara Arthurs, Kabana's supervisor/hostess, that Kabana's managing director and owner is Craig Robinson. Sir, if this is correct, I take my hat off to you. Keep that standard flying high all the time, not just sometimes, and I know you will be on Hope Road for many years to come.
I look forward to the fine dining the next step of Kabana's endeavour, as I understand it, with bated breath. Is this not exciting? All these new little spots in our capital city, eh?
In the immortal words of Lewis Carroll - "The time has come," the Walrus said, "to talk of many things ... a loaf of bread" the Walrus said, "is what we chiefly need. Pepper and vinegar besides, are very good indeed. Now, if you're ready, Oysters dear, we can begin to feed."
Ain't that a fact.
You must decide here and now, in these days and times, not in some far-off, distant future whether the world is to be fashioned with tools of devastation or tools of recreation. The New Revelations by Neale Donald Walsch
Weeks later it was a different story ...
I RETURNED with friends to Kabana last week Tuesday.
Result: The Virgin Mango Daiquiries fabulous. Red peas soup cornstarch. Oxtail divine. Curry goat great. Baked chicken hardly any meat on bones. Stew Peas too salty. All plantain awful. Veggies under-blanched. Potato puddings not happy 'puds'.
Chef promised there was no cornstarch or flour in the red peas soup.
Explanations: Plantain scarcity had forced importation. Apologies for rest.
Suggestions: When a particular commodity is not available, use your imagination. Add another instead of importing inferior quality i.e., caramelised sweet potato julienne.
Find a local proven source
for great puddings and bring them in-house. Ask another restaurateur for advice.
Pleadings: Kabana, you've just opened and everyone wants you to succeed. Ah beg yuh, get that kitchen perfect -- every day, all day and night.
I still recommend Kabana. The chef was receptive to all comments, promising more consistency.
