Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
Errol 'Ikes' Chambers and his assistant look out over the service counter at his brightly painted little restaurant on the West End of Negril. - PHOTOS BY ROSEMARY PARKINSON
Royal Kitchen vegetarian Café and Royal Pub
West End, Negril
Open daily Monday to Sunday
Phone: 775 0386 and 856 7696
TO THE sounds of Joseph Hill's 'Culture', we entered the brightly painted little restaurant owned by Errol 'Ikes' Chambers on the West End of Negril. There to greet us was the man himself - 'Ikes' - humble, unassuming, his gorgeous dreadlocks freckled profusely with grey, his fine, fit body a testament to his beliefs, his arms outstretched in warm welcome. There had been no notice of our arrival.
There had been no plan that early morning except to search for some incredible ital food. In fact, this journey to Negril had all taken place as a matter of chance. "The best place for ital food that I know is at the entrance to Flankers, near the airport," said a Montegonian by the name of Ramon Vernon. And we had gone. And we had eaten. A plateful of divine fares that included brown rice, callaloo, veggie pie, ackee stew, corn and a myriad of other interesting flavours. I was taken aback. But hello I wanted a review and the brethren there would not allow it.
Okey dokey, thought I, filled with disappointment but with 'nuff' respect. It was then that my companion began profusely to expound on Errol Chambers. "He's mi friend you know and his food is great but I don't know if he still exists, it has been so long now." Always a trooper and determined, the decision was made to head for Negril the drive now so pretty with the land so strongly green from the rains. On arrival, we discovered Chambers not at his usual spot, but with a Negril stylee redirection, we were brought straight to a better and larger spot further along. Things were looking up for Mr. Chambers, noted my companion, and in just a 'likkle' more time, we were in the hands of this most affable man.
SEEKING FORTUNE
Errol 'Ikes' Chambers has been in Negril for some 30-odd years from Kingston, having decided to look for his fortunes here at a time when Negril was but a couple of huts with no electricity. "The place was full of hippies," he commented, "no electricity. People had a few cottages they rent out. I used to cook for the hippies you know, and I still have some as my friends. They keep coming back every year to Negril. Now they don't have that long hair anymore, some even bald. Big businessmen and women now." Pointing to the now asphalted road on the West End, he continued, "Dis road here was just a tiny dirt road, not a taxi in sight, nutting. And then I watch as this place get big. Big guest houses. Now big hotels. And everyting all-inclusive it make it hard on the people but still, we ah try and so far I have had my blessings."
As we sat there chatting and our food was being warmed up, passers-by, children, stopped by and 'Ikes' insisted that the kitchen give them a little something. "I do not like to see hungry people," he said, "especially not the children. I do not think I will ever be rich with money, fi mi give away everyting," he continued, laughing to himself. I asked 'Ikes' how long he had been an ital man, obviously touching on a subject on which he liked to expound.
For the next 30 minutes I was made cognisant of a life story of illness that involved back and stomach problems no end. It was then that a 'Rasta man' introduced 'Ikes' to 'de roots' ital food and living. But after years of eating meat, it was difficult to stick to the regimen.
On various occasions 'Ikes' would fall back to the flesh but every time he did, the same problems would return until he got his head straight, according to him. "I realise that ital must be the food fi when I stop eating Ital and turn to de meat I get sick, so from the last time, I don't eat no more meat, and my health is perfect. Is 37 years now I cooking only vegetarian food."
A FULL BELLY
Every day 'Ikes' and his crew have pot ah-boil with different stews and vegetables. The menu changes daily. From red pea to broad bean to lentil to split pea with vegetables like pumpkin, carrots, cabbage and pak choi. Callaloo, tofu, veggie chunks and ackee. Natural seasonings such as garlic, onions, tomatoes, peppers, scallion and thyme with dumplings made out of whole wheat. Brown rice is common in this kitchen where organic, pure, raw, unprocessed and non-artificial are de rigueur.
There is breakfast too with bammy, ackee, callaloo, fried plantains and dumplings. Hominy, plantain, green banana and peanut porridge the latter being their specialty. Juices are a treat here, according to my friend cherry, June plum, orange and mango. Melon, ginger, cucumber, okra and breadfruit punch. Peanut, jackfruit and soursop (also another specialty). Needless to say I opted for the least common the Okra Punch. Thought I would maximise the chances of disaster. Hello there it was absolutely a triumph. Delicious to the 'A'.
ANOTHER PLATEFUL
And then came yet another plateful of ital food with 'Ikes' lamenting the fact that we had come too late for lunch and too early for dinner. Callaloo, breadfruit, yam, Veggie Chunks Stew, Red Pea and Pumpkin Stew, Curried Tofu and Whole-wheat Dumpling with salad was all on my plate. Everything was indeed excellent and I was bursting at the seams you know me will not insult a chef by feigning a full belly! Lord have mercy.
As we entered the car to leave 'Ikes' said: "I think dat is my work here on earth to try and change people from de junk food been there and know where it is at. This ital food is the food of the future. I put my spirit into the food. It's not about the money, it about the love. You know I had a lot of BBC and different TVs come to me about my food, people from foreign but I never been in the local papers. Now I give thanks. Bless."
Just want to congratulate Virginia Burke of Walkerswood. Her new book, Eat Caribbean, was launched last week. All reports say it was a resounding success. My copy was duly signed, sealed and delivered in my absence and I am more than pleased to report that Virginia's excellence has once more been showcased, and Virginia, thanks for the kind words you are tops.
Rosemary Parkinson was last seen hanging by one finger from an ackee tree. Her way of showing solidarity with nature and rapport with the earth. There is nothing anyone can do.
