Nathelie Taylor and Alicia Roache, Staff Reporters
THE NATIONAL Indoor Sports Centre is not your expected choice for a fashion show.
The big, boxy building is a sterile configuration normally used for indoor sporting activities and was built by the government as home for the World National Netball Championships in 2003.
Netball, however, and sports in general, were distant thoughts last weekend when the venue was transformed into a Caribbean fashion capital.
Huge amounts of black fabric were used to create a backdrop from which a flat screen panel announced the names of the designers on the fifth staging of Caribbean Fashionweek (CFW).
The ample venue also afforded a much improved production, one which comfortably housed the exhibition booths where designers who were so inclined could showcase their wares to the public and where twin runways accommodated a more comfortable viewing of the collections. It also meant that more persons could get a better look at the collections. The front rows were expansive and, failing that, a comfortable view was afforded from the stands.
THE HOME
Pulse CEO Kingsley Cooper believes that this is a "great venue" for the shows. "It is likely to be the home of CFW as long as the event is held in Kingston," he said in a statement issued to The Sunday Gleaner.
However, while 34 collections were shown from the over 50 designers, even fewer actually exhibited their
collections. "The designer exhibition is unlikely to be continued in the future," Cooper said.
"We are frustrated by some designers' nonchalance in taking up their booths, despite their presence at the event. Why they would forego this opportunity to meet buyers, the media, the public and their peers, thereby furthering their business interests is beyond us," he said.
In it's fifth year, Caribbean Fashionweek has grown in patron attendance and designer participation and is considered to be the premier show on the Jamaican fashion calendar.
Yet, there were still a few production hitches.
Long delays were a glaring drawback. For instance the first show on Friday, June 10, scheduled to begin at 5:30 p.m., began over an hour late.
And while the cause for the delays went unexplained at the shows, there is, apparently, some method behind the madness. "Many key persons could not make the 5:30 p.m. start," Cooper explained. "We wanted to ensure that all shows were well attended and that for the sake of the the all-important television production, all four front rows were filled at the start."
Additionally, Cooper explained, the long delays which preceded Jessica Ogden's and Cedella Marley's
shows were to accommodate the hair, make-up and styling required for these special collections.
THE COLLECTIONS
Antonio Cumberbatch, Joelle Jean-Fontaine, Cooyah, Claudia Pegus and Cedella Marley with the 'Catch A Fire' collection were just a few of the designers who created a stir with marvellous creations.
Cumberbatch, the darling of the first night, could do no wrong. The dynamic and zesty Posh Punk collection demonstrated a high level of dedication and skill on the part of the 18 year-old Barbadian designer and great things are expected of him in the future. Jean Fontaine was another first-timer whose funky Kreyol collection, a combination of designs from different time periods brought to life with bold colours and patterns, was a hit on the first night. Her couture, which included poufed skirts, shimmery highlights and fishnet stockings, are for the woman who likes to be different, adventurous and not afraid to be stared at.
Cooyah was another major hit on the first night. Known for their bold colours and signature Rasta-toned T-Shirts for men and women, Cooyah upped the ante in casual urban wear by unleashing a whole new line that had patrons raving. With short shorts, flared skirts, cute tanks and boy-shorts already a hit with the females, the women's line was made even more dramatic and sexy by being injected with new doses of military styled skirts and jackets, a fringed poncho/mini skirt set and even a black corset-typed top.
The men's line also got an incredible power kick with the introduction of light linen jackets emblazoned with the signature word 'Cooyah' or the black outline of a lion, a design which is increasing in popularity among the party-going young men. Linen pants
for men were also introduced, along with the long-awaited denim line which featured a fresh, cool look in jeans for men and women.
Claudia Pegus again crowned herself the queen of women's formal and evening wear on Sunday night. Her designs were breathtaking. They consisted of clean, classic lines presented in ultra modern, ultra feminine creations. Her semi-casual line included slim-fitting skirts and dresses in strong hues of red and burnt orange, accented by flower details at the sides. The evening wear was also exquisitely sensual. The gowns, in deep, rich hues, sizzled on the curvy Pulse models. In the end thunderours applause and a standing ovation greeted the diminutive designer on her walk down the runway.
'Catch A Fire' indeed lived up to its name. Flirtatious, fun and forever paying tribute to her late father and reggae icon Bob Marley, Cedella Marley's line was complete with skirts, dresses, shorts, jackets and even swimwear that, while being funky casual, also managed to portray an air of classy sophistication.
Bounding on the catwalk to a groovy mix of reggae and a dub of Junior Gong's Jamrock, a gold and black-garbed Nadine Willis set the stage for what was an entertaining showcase of outfits that surpassed being a mere fashion show to become a pulsating celebration of love, life and Jamaican culture. The colours red, green and gold are prominent throughout Marley's fiery line, with images of another popular symbol marijuana subtly teased in on a number of pieces such as her belts and necklaces. Naturally, she received a rousing applause as she stepped out on the catwalk.
However, not all collections are created equal and Jessica Ogden's 'Passa Passa' inspired line proved less equal than most.
Jamaican by birth, Ogden returned to the island on Kingsley Cooper's invitation to participate in CFW with the collection. Known for her use of old fabrics, Ogden's presence at CFW was highly expected and many were excited to see what this internationally respected designer had to offer.
Unfortunately, patrons' expectations fell incredibly short of being fulfilled as soon as the models hit the runway. Ogden's alleged 'Passa Passa' collection was a clear demonstration of a theme far removed from the famed street dance. Ogden, it seems, clearly misunderstood, misinterpreted or simply just missed the concept behind the Jamaican term and the energy of the dancehall.
Passa Passa in Jamaica is representative of the vitality of the people, the love of life and the boundless strength and spirit which Jamaicans innately possess.
Ogden's collection failed to represent any of those things. Her use of old fabrics to create new clothing may be interesting in itself, but disappointment clouded the faces of patrons as they viewed the dull, lifeless and boring creations she presented under the guise of being 'Passa Passa'.
Her clothing had none of the vibe, none of the energy, none of the 'passa passa' that characterises Passa Passa, which was surprising since she has claimed to have attended the well-known downtown Kingston street dance. Instead, Ogden presented a mass of outfits that belonged in the era of great-grandmothers.
On the flip side, Biggy, who has been creating collections inspired by the dancehall for years, took it to another level with his 2006 collection. From the haute couture denim gown which featured the ingredients of a cereal to the printed pants and white wrap top with gathers, Biggy's line rocked.
Other designers who created a stir included Sonia Noel with her Mariska's designs, Pat Wright's tropical inspired Wright Style, Meiling and Henk and Judith Uiterloo's Atelier Dore jewellery collection.
