- WINSTON SILL/FREELANCE PHOTOGRAPHER
A model presents a piece from Nerissa Swaby's 'Risuji' Collection at the Eclectic Fashion Show, held at Backyard, Constant Spring Road recently.
Alicia Roache, Staff Reporter
IT IS one of those words that is the same in many languages, including English, French, Belgian, Italian and Spanish.
It is known as 'haken' in Holland, 'haekling' in Denmark, 'hekling' in Norway, and 'virkning' in Sweden.
But whatever it is called, crochet has been in the family, since, well, forever.
People have always been crocheting for relaxation, to decorate homes and for making choice pieces for close friends and family members.
But crochet, as a feature of runway fashion, has never been as common as it is now.
The recent increase in the number of women and men who have announced themselves as designers of crocheted clothing suggests the wind of change has nudged the old art form out of the living room and into the marketplace.
GRACING THE RUNWAYS
The most famous local example is designer Minka, who has achieved some celebrity for her crocheted creations that regularly grace runways locally and have appeared in fashion magazines internationally. Minka is a good example of what one can do with crochet.
Now aiming to distinguish themselves among the new group of designers in order to earn some popularity and a good income are Nerissa Swaby with her 'Risuji' designs and Damion Thompson with 'Knotted Up'.
The Flair magazine of August 1, 2005, featured two upcoming designers, Eunice Cassell from Seaforth, St. Thomas, and Jennifer Perry from Franklyn Town, Kingston, who are both making a living from crochet.
Both women describe crochet as a source of well-needed income when things got tough. Both women make a full range of the garments afforded by the method.
There are many like Eunice and Jennifer. A trip to any of the fashion fairs put on at Devon House should open a revolving door of crochet practitioners, all trying to make a living from what was once a living room craft.
It begs the question: With so many waving their hooks and threads, what does this mean for the earlier practitioners?
Because although crochet is undoubtedly popular, there is not exactly a mass market for the products in Jamaica.
Nerissa Swaby, who has made multiple appearances on fashion shows and has a steady stream of clients, thinks that this crochet movement should auger well for the craft.
"It's good. I guess it can be a little bad too. It's good in the sense that it is helping a lot of people," she said.
However, she warns about the downside as well, cautioning that not everyone who crochets can design and make garments well.
"If you are a prospective buyer, you have to look at those products and see how well they're made," she says.
According to Swaby, who has formal training in sewing, crocheting clothing is not as simple as making a doily.
"A lot of people who are doing it are not doing it the right way," she says. "They don't know the ins and outs of designing and how to use elastic and so on."
"They just do it and you can't wear it more than once, because it stretches out," she said. "People just capitalise on the designs because it's wearing."
'COMPETITION IS GOOD'
Nonetheless, Nerissa admits that more designers will mean that those who want to stay competitive will have to become better.
"As in any business, competition is what makes you a better person. It makes you try harder," she said.
Damion Thompson agrees. "Competition is good. It push yuh to do better. But a lot of competition can be bad too," he says. "You have to look at the quality."
Given this awareness, both Swaby and Thompson would like to do more with their skills. They aim at a larger market, an international market.
"I would love to (go international) says Swaby. "I would love somebody to call me for a fashion show on the north coast." This, Swaby believes, will open up other opportunities.
Thompson would like to appear on more fashion shows. He is currently preparing for Laface's 'Spunky Fashions on the Catwalk' show slated for later this year.
Both designers have, since their latest shows, done and plan to do different things with their designs.
Swaby is looking into complimenting her crochet with other fabrics and accessories such as leather and buckles, while Thompson is making crochet outfits, toys and shoes for babies, adults and even pets.
STEREOTYPE
It is an unlikely intention for an activity that is usually associated with old, retired women, or, in recent years, the quiet, hardworking Rastawoman.
"People perceive someone who does crochet as somebody old who sits in a rocking chair and wears glasses," explains Swaby.
She says people are sometimes surprised that she is 'not old' or a Rasta.
Thompson, as a Rastaman, fits into one aspect of the stereotype but defies many others. He is just 28 years old, but admits to learning the ancient craft from his mother and grandmother.
He says being a man who crochets has never been a problem.
"A lot of people see me a crochet an dem awe to it," he said. "Mi a Rasta. Yuh know as a Rasta, yuh independent. Dem ago tell mi seh is a good ting mi a do because you know a Rastaman nah go get a job a certain place."
And that is the essence of this time-honoured craft. It is a way for many to earn a living, humble or otherwise, from a household craft.
WELCOME CHANGE
A crochet bikini can cost as little at $2,000, a blouse $,3000 to $4,000, depending on style and $6,000 and upwards for a dress. It is a far cry from days when women used to crochet an item for the house for as little as $200.
It is a welcome change for those who wish to take crochet to the next level.
It is open to anyone who has the skill and talent to make a living. However, Thompson suggests that the influx of talent may not happen as fast as expected. According to him, many young people who have learnt the craft are not interested in pursuing it commercially.
"Dem just do it off an on. Dem nuh really tek it up as a profession," he said.
