Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
Miss Pilgrim with her delicious ham.
I AM forever amazed on the approach to this island by air. The surrounding water of crystal clear bright turquoise is a sight to behold and once over land, the new appearances (within months, it seems) of more hotels and houses - the huge Hilton Hotel being the latest and the first to be seen on the - south west point of the island.
The airport alone (still under construction) is an immediate reminder of that steadfast growth path the Government has carved towards becoming the most progressive and developed island within CARICOM. However, there's a price to pay. Like US$18 (J$1,116.00) for two papaya and one avocado in the local market. Mi near dead as I reluctantly pulled the bills out of my wallet.
But with a drop by 50 per cent of the island's employment in the agricultural sector, the wrongful adage that the land means arduous, hard and historically demeaning labour - what do you expect? Import statistics of 75 per cent of the food required to feed the nation and visitors, should show the authorities the vulnerability of the island should be any disruption in supply and serve to encourage, through education, more agri-tourism as the obvious answer.
GOODBYE PARTY
Serious talk aside, I must mention my short but enjoyable nightlife. Barbados certainly has it. A goodbye party for a favourite hangout of years in Worthing - Mojo's. You shall be missed. A great jam of rock 'n' roll and multi-mix live band Roadhouse at McBride's and a touch of Jamaica at The Reggae Lounge in St. Lawrence Gap led to a visit to my favourite hang-out - Charlie's Bar and Grill - now relocated to Maxwell Coast Road to give way to yet another historic building (Morecombe Great House and Charlie's old address) being sadly demolished to make way for progress - probably condominiums.
On the enjoyable day-life side was a meeting with Sandra Weeks (from the workshop in St. Kitts) - operations director of Earth Mother Botanicals and her partner and CEO, Amy Le May. These enterprising ladies produce fabulous skin care products (from soaps to cleansers, body scrubs to polish) made from pure natural ingredients that carry exotic island names such as bayleaf and ginger, spiced guava, mango butter and aloe. And then there was the pure excitement of spending a morning with Ena Harvey, the Barbados representative for the Inter-American Institute for Co-operation on Agriculture (IICA) who did a wonderful job as one of the hosting parties at the agri-tourism workshop in St. Kitts.
The role of the IICA can be summed up as being one of aiding the modernisation of the rural sector, the promotion of food security and prosperity of communities by supporting agro-industrial, agri-business and agri-tourism amongst many other directives. In an interview with the 2004 edition of Signature Barbados Magazine, Ena said, "Tourists today want new experiences that are centred on food and culture ... a whole dimension to tourism that involves agriculture that we have not yet tapped." She pointed out the contribution that a vibrant agricultural sector can make in terms of greater employment, social stability and preservation of rural communities and heritage.
UNTOUCHED IDEAS
Ena could not be more right in her thinking. In her office she produced some amazing samples of products, and talked about still untouched ideas for our islands. I saw a soft beautiful leather, made from Barbados' indigenous black belly sheep - a meat, by the way, in great demand by the prestigious Sandy Lane Hotel but sadly not available in consistent quantities even for them. Wake up Barbados!
I marvelled at art collages depicting the island's heritage on these same skins (normally disposed of at the abattoir) by Barbadian Ann Rudder. I was awed by guava and fruit cheeses beautifully packaged with indigenous materials and made by the Amerindians in Guyana as tourist souvenirs. We spoke of Jungle Bay's success story in Dominica. Bobby Frederick's ongoing Gingerette - the subject of next week's review. We discussed potential businesses marred by beaurocracy, that is, customs not being able to qualify silk-worm eggs destined for a new farm project until all were dead. Wake up Barbados and all other islands!
On World Food Day - celebrated on October 16 - I decided to visit Cheapside Market in Bridgetown. Probably one of the best agri-tourism realities (still not marketed to its fullest), on the island. Although I would have preferred to see this building (recently renovated) reflect a little more Caribbean style in its architecture, I cannot dismiss the fact that it is a model for all Caribbean markets. There's a meat section, air-conditioned and with refrigerated showcases. Produce vendors within the market display fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices - even plants - on rows of built-in stands. Water is readily accessible. It is very clean and washrooms are in place. I love the outdoor stalls that surround the new buildings giving the whole area a real market feel, but as I understand it, the powers-that-be wish to remove these people. 'Standardise' I guess is the order of the day. In my eyes it would be a mistake.
Approaching the interior from the west entrance is Marlene Moore who has been there for 22 years. She is an asset - even 'though her prices can make you balk (she's the one with the pawpaws and avocado. Marlene always has high quality produce 'though.
"I get a lot out of vending. Would not give it up 'till I can't mek it no more. True. I got a nice, nice home. Children well educated in good jobs and now I'm doing the same for my grandchildren," she told me.
When asked whether she was a farmer "No dearie, I sends off a lady to de plantations. She does bring everyting to me. It's a sharing process. She mek a little, I mek a little. Nutting wrong wid dat, right?"
Upstairs is the food court. My spot. Neat booths, all numbered, some with signs, benches and stools to sit on. On the east entrance is Harriet. I sat and chatted with her (we have known each other 'ever-since,' as they say in Buhbayduss). green banana coucou, yam pie, cabbage salad and the most divine, melt-in-your-mouth pork chop covered in a dark brown gravy that ensured my taste buds went into orgasmic ritual were enjoyed.
Miss Dora, right next door, has the finest pudding and souse on a Saturday. Pudding in Barbados is pig intestine filled with spiced sweet potato, and souse is deliciously 'pickled pig features' that is, ears, nose, feet and meat. The pickle is finely chopped or grated cucumbers, pepper, onions, scallion, parsley, garlic and lime. Great stuff. Sampled her corn coucou (turned cornmeal with okra), smothered in stewed red herring creole style.
REELING IN LOVE
Dora is another stalwart with 29 years of cooking in the market. Her friend Audene Clarke has one year less and stewed liver and cutters (sandwich in a Bajan round salt bread) is her specialty. My tastings, ol' talk and banter had me reeling in love for my traditional markets and food therein - someone should have carried me out de place fi big belly but, had to stop at Miss Pilgrim's for US$5 (J$310.00) worth of the absolute best, the most tender and juicy, locally smoked and exquisitely baked ham.
Most of these ladies' prices range from US$4 (J$248.00) to US$7 (J$434.00) for a huge meal. All of them have these things in common:
a. They buy all their ingredients in the market
b. The fruits of their labour have provided land, homes and education for their children
c. They love what they do and
d. They are proud of their varied fabulous local fare.
Every person I spoke to within the market wants to see:
Free-trade and movement within the islands
More tourists and locals shopping in the market
More hotel and restaurant chefs making use of the fresh goods the market has to offer. I am in total agreement.
Wake up Barbados. Wake up Caribbean. Wake up governments. The people are speaking.
"Man will achieve his greatest fulfilment through improving the quality of life". The Peter Principle by Dr. Lawrence J. Peter and Raymond Hill.
Barbados can be reached by Air Jamaica and BWIA.
Two best Internet spots - Global on Worthing and Picasso's Café, Quayside, Rcokley.
