Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
Tourists enjoying some of the best food and drink Antigua has to offer. - PHOTOS BY ROSEMARY PARKINSON
AGRI-TOURISM. I can only hope readers are enjoying this subject that has taken me all over the islands in our region and taught me the importance a well-planned agricultural sector to the Caribbean, as well as how decidedly imperative free trade is.
In Antigua, farmer Alvin Christian in Bathlodge has approximately 20 acres of land; he hopes to lease more, has planted all manner of fruits (both exotic and tropical) and vegetables, sells in the market and over the years has managed to 'build' several waterways through the land that attracts a number of birds and ducks.
His vision - an agri-tourism farm. Jamaicans work with Alvin and he considers them very hard workers - another reason why I believe the Caribbean Single Market and Economy (CSME) is the best thing for our islands. Those who don't like to work at home for reasons of 'honour', seem to have no problem toiling the land in another country. Alvin's vision? A small restaurant, a processing plant and cabins for visitors. As a farmer he has problems.
"We expect to wake up in the morning and be rich. In the Caribbean today we mostly start a farm with one generation, ending it with one generation. I have been working on my ideas for 15 years but even if I achieve it, who will take over from me? My children are not interested." A sad thought which brought to mind an idea. Could farmers not approach colleges and universities abroad offering agricultural students internships as part of their degree course?
The exchange of ideas/information would be beneficial, one could charge the university or the student for the 'teaching' opportunity while the student works the farm. Perhaps if our young men and women see 'foreigners' working in the hot sun, they might understand the respect that this most honoured career has elsewhere. Alvin promised to pursue the idea. This could alleviate some financial hurdles helping to bring his dream closer to fruition. Other farmers take heed.
WALKING INTO 'EATS'
Walking the capital city, St. John's, I stumbled into North Street where an intricate black and white building, designed and built by Zeno Richardson, houses his restaurant 'Eats' where organic food is served. "Every inch of this building is used," he said, "I designed it with that in mind." His small menu of chicken, fish and soya chunks was not ready but I had the pleasure of a deliciously refreshing soursop juice.
Zeno buys his produce in the market from special organic farmers and does not find sourcing items difficult. "You must visit Saturday market. Look for Ras Mike outside Miami Supermarket in a Green Van for the best in Ital Food" he said. Along New Gate Street, The Sit & Sip Restaurant caught my eye. Sean John, the owner, greeted me at the door. I had the most fabulous bowl of Pepperpot Soup with Fungi made of dasheen leaves, okra, pig tail, salt pork, chicken pieces and black-eye peas - the fungi plonked right in the centre of it all. A Guyanese by birth, Sean has a Dominican helper, believes in Caricom unity, sources his ingredients from farmers and market. His advice for good local food - Big Banana at Heritage Quay and Skeel Nightclub on Fort Road for Fish Soup.
160 DIFFERENT RUMS
Papa Zouk at Gamble's was a night time stop, where local bites of fish, shrimp, lobster were served with different spicy sauces, washed down with one of their 160 different rums. Russell's at Fort James was next were much Cavalier was imbibed and good conversation prevailed - this time another side of the story. Hoteliers find it extremely difficult to deal with farmers - their expectation of exactitude, delivery on time, producing the order does not appear to fit into the psyche of the farmer I was informed. "Our hotel even went as far as visiting the market making a contract with one lady to supply 20 lbs. of Antigua's black pineapple on a Friday. By collection time, she had sold 1 lb. to her friend, 2 lbs. to a passer-by, 3lbs. to an aunt.
By the time the pineapples arrived at the hotel, we were lucky to have half the order. Time and again this happened with all produce. If a definite system could be worked out, it would be our pleasure to buy everything local but we have tried it, believe you me. The frustrations led us to source things from large reputable firms." My thoughts on this are that we have to educate our farmers about servicing the hotel industry by forming co-operatives that have constant supply - such as the one in Jamaica that stocks Sandals. And talking Sandals, brings Eustace Vitalis who presented a lead paper in St. Kitts - the Sandals Experience - to mind. He spoke of Sandals St. Lucia where he, as manager, introduced a strict programme with farmers insisting that the hotel purchases and works together with same to help them understand the hotel's needs, ensuring, at the same time, that payment is accorded every two weeks promptly. Both hotel and farmers are benefiting.
Antigua does not have agricultural products in such abundance as say St. Lucia or Jamaica showing that a CARICOM free-trade with a technological information base would allow sourcing from other islands, keeping the agricultural lands vibrant, our farmers respected.
MARKET DAY
Saturday was market day. I ate local to my heart's content. Lorraine, the rice pudding lady, served me copious amounts of this delicious 'sausage' made with pig's blood, mashed rice and seasonings that glorified the palate. Fresh tamarind, then a ginger juice, came from Mary Davis. Hyacinth and Lorraine on the verandah of the CMC Building served me fungi, pepperpot, eggplant, spinach and green pawpaw, shad (type of fish), saltfish and boiled cassava - all these ladies buy local straight from the market. The heavenly tastes of all these foods make that obvious.
Last but not least. Jules Nesbitt's Fish in Villa - the home of 'concerned citizens', politicos, radio and television newscasters - I mean any and everybody with something to say, every Friday and Saturday night. An Antiguan Hyde Park corner. Excitement fah so while Jules steams perfectly seasoned out-of-this-world fish of every description, provides bottles of Cavalier Rum (Scotch if required), chasers and ice for EC$25 - everyone sitting at long benches expounding. I met farmer Gordon Foster, his lovely wife Lynn, his brother John. More farm talk before heated debates with talk-show Observer host, Foster Derrick. I have not tasted a fish so sweet, a rum so inviting interspersed with brain stimulation. I want more of Antigua.
GO CARIBBEAN
Travel our Caribbean - there's a host of learning to do.
BWIA takes you to Antigua from Kingston.
Antigua & Barbuda Tourist Information - Toll Free: 888 268 4227
Website: www.antigua-barbuda.org
