Rosemary Parkinson, Gleaner Writer
Toast the new year with your choice of Champagne. - PHOTO BY ROSEMARY PARKINSON
Oh! pour me another flute of that
Sweet French liquid loot, love
Notre Dame, Parish charm
Victor Hugo and crepes
'Till there's nothin' from France
Like the King of Grapes
Champagne, Champagne, a song by Michael Gurley and John Gilmore
Yet another Old Lang Syne to be sung and we will be looking to purchase that special bottle of magical brew to toast and ring in 2006. So let's talk Champagne.
Notice that Champagne is always written with a capital letter. Why? It's a proper noun - the name of a particular type of wine that comes from France's northernmost winemaking region - the Champagne Valley. A wine made through a meticulous defined process called the method champenoise. Although the word Champagne is controlled by the French it really does not come under international law and some wineries, particularly in the United States, will put the word on the label but that does not make it Champagne. Wines that bubble and are made outside of this region are sparkling wines. Now there's nothing wrong with a good bottle of sparkling wine, if you cannot afford the real French stuff - there are many excellent ones coming out of France, California, Chile and Spain.
LABELS
Don't let Champagne labels confuse. Brut is the driest, Extra-dry is less dry than Brut, Sec is sweet and Demi-sec is even sweeter. The classic Champagne is Brut although one is always advised by oenologists (wine experts) to try them all before making your choice. An expensive thing, so it's alright to go with what you prefer in ordinary wines. The presence of a date on the bottle tells that it's vintage. No date? Non-vintage (NV). The latter being often the best value as it's a controlled blend and on many occasions from different excellent grape harvests. Vintage indicates that the harvest was an excellent one. Champagne "houses" declare their own vintage years and some of the better ones were 1982, 1983, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1995 and 1996. If a label does not say Rose, one can assume the Champagne is white. This Rose Champagne colour is achieved from the skins of the Pinot grapes. The only difference between white and pink is that the white Champagnes are produced by pressing the red grapes quickly so that no colour is extracted. It is a myth that pink Champagne is always sweet and cheap.
The words Appellation d'Orgine Controlee (A.O.C.) ensure that this is a product from the Champagne Valley of France. Bottles that do not have this but are from France are also Champagne.
STORAGE
Store Champagne in a cool place. Do not put Champagne into freezer for a quick chill. The best way to chill Champagne is in a bucket filled with ice and water - this will be ready to drink in 20 minutes. Do not store Cham-pagnes for too long, they will deteriorate in three to four years - a good point to query when purchasing. Once the bottle is open, drink it! That bit about the spoon upside down in the bottleneck saving it, is unproven - Champagne stoppers are better.
UNCORKING
Uncork a bottle of Champagne by cutting the foil around the top of the bottle. Wrap bottle with cloth. Place hand around bottle with thumb on the top of cork. Shooting corks may be fun but it's actually rude in circles in the know. Loosen wire. Ease cork gently by twisting bottle in one direction so Champagne will not foam or lose bubbles.
TYPE OF GLASS
Serve Champagne in flutes or tulip-shaped glass. Those old-style shallow-bowled Champagne coupes that were purportedly modeled after Marie-Antoinette's breast (oops!) allow the bubbles to disappear too fast - either you don't use them or you knock back the Champagne in two swallows.
HOW TO SERVE AND DRINK
Now proper way to serve Champagne: Do not chill flute. Use crystal if possible. Ensure flute is dry and odourless. Pour Champagne without tilting, filling partially at first, then add. Not to the brim of glass. Place fingers on stem and not on glass for drinking. Voila.
CHAMPAGNE PRETENDER
Want to impress with Champagne? Lift glass of Champagne against the light, if bubbles are tiny, Champagne is a good one. If they are big - you have a cheap date. Don't bother to get too involved in discussions about the different grapes that ensure a good champagne - pretend you know and anyhow, even the experts say it's really about personal taste. Fine Champagne does taste better, however, and will ensure no hangover - depending on how many bottles are imbibed! Remember that more red grapes in the wine, makes a heavier Champagne and more white a lighter one. No rocket-scientism needed here.
WHAT AND WHERE
For French Champagne Vintage - Dom Perignon Vintage 1996, 1998 and Vintage Reserve, Moet & Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon Brut 1990, Bollinger Brut Grand Annee 1989, La Grande Dame Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin 1995. French NonVintage:Veuve Clicquot Brut, Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut, Moet & Chandon Imperial Brut, Piper-Heidsieck Brut Rose. French Sparkling Wine: Bouvet Signature Brut & Rose Brut. California Vintage: Domaine Carneros LeReve Blanc de Blancs 1992. Non-Vintage: Mumm Cuvee Napa Brut Prestige. Spanish: Freixenet Carta Nevada. There is much coice available from Wray & Nephew, Lascelles Wine & Spirits, 1876 Wines in Stony Hill, Kloran Ltd. Linstead,
Personally, I find that Rum, Roast & Royals at Devon House, Kingston have a fine selection and you can browse. Plus they sell all the paraphernalia such a flutes, buckets and, for that party in mind - cheeses, pates and caviar to make that evening so very special. So all there's left to say is: 'Lift that glass of bubbly into the air and have yourself Une Bonne Annee, Ein Gluckliches Neyjahr, Un Anno Nuovo Felise, Un Feliz Ano Nuevo and naturally a Happy, Happy New Year!
