Barbara Ellington, Lifestyle Editor

Chef Leonard Wilson applies the special stuffing to wenchman fish before wrapping it in foil for the grill. He served up the delicious treat at Terrencet William's 50th birthday party and familiy reunion in Christiana, Manchester on Saturday, August 6. - PHOTO BY NATHANIEL STEWART
THE AVERAGE Boxing Day, Good Friday or Heroes Day party would not be the same without huge pots of curried goat, mannish water, cow cod soup, roast fish, mackerel run down and the other traditional goodies Jamaicans love to eat.
These meals are not catered in air conditioned, state-of-the-art kitchens, they are lovingly prepared outdoors over blazing wood fires and coal stoves. And the chefs are men from all our villages and districts. They have earned their reputation after several years.
We call them village chefs because that's who they are - young middle-aged and older men who have earned a reputation for being great cooks. Village chefs are also called upon to cook the meals at country wedding receptions and funeral repasts. They just have a knack for making everyone return for seconds and even thirds and they work their magic without the benefit of a home economics lesson or hospitality industry degree.
As my grandmother used to say, they have 'seasoning' in their hands. It's no wonder therefore, that they are often called to travel into the city areas to add authenticity to many society functions; this even when the main menu is prepared by established caterers and food stylists.
NOT LISTED
You won't find village chefs listed in the telephone books, they don't have websites or business cards but with today's improved telephone communication, they can be reached at a moment's notice.
One such village chef is Leonard Wilson from Bellefield, Manchester. Mr. Wilson can be hired for all special occasions where good Jamaica food is required.
"I specialise in fish, jerk chicken and jerk pork," Mr. Wilson told Food at a birthday party in Christians earlier this year. The lines were long as word spread about the delicious wenchman fish he had stuffed and wrapped in foil before roasting over a roaring coal fire.
He shared his simple recipe of cleaning the fish then adding a mixture of finely chopped okras, callalo, hot/sweet peppers and other herbs and seasonings. The fish were then placed in lightly greased foil and sealed to hold all the juice and flavour. In 15-20 minutes they were ready.