Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
Left: Barbadian cuisine - a hit for six. - Right: Miss Harriet in the food court with her divine pork stew. - PHOTOS BY ROSEMARY PARKINSON
BARBADOS IS an island whose cuisine never added up to much more than flying fish (yes! they do fly!) and coucou (turned cornmeal with okra). Today, it be counted within the English-speaking Caribbean among the tops in cuisine. Whether we like to hear it or not, Barbados has encouraged native restaurateurs and others from all over the world to invade the island. Local chefs from all walks of life have been encouraged to push forward and be trained by those who reside there. It has encouraged the little man to open his little spot; the lady in their vans to park themselves up - all the while ensuring through proper health care regulations that eating is all about pleasure. Further, I have to confirm that with the Government's new stand on and propaganda about, making visitors feel welcome and understand that service is not servitude, there has been a remarkable difference since my last visit to the island.
HARRIET'S FAMOUS PORK
All through the week, the beautifully decorated stands at both Oistins Fish Market and Rockley (or Accra) Beach (ask for Fred at It's all Good!), on the south coast belt out a bevy of 'cutters' - meaning salt breads filled with liver, ham, saltfish cakes, divinely seasoned flying fish, dolphin (mahi mahi) or king fish. From Wednesday to Saturday, Oistins has outdoor night 'fryers' blazing. Here dishes are filled with all manner of fish, breadfruit, macaroni pie, potato salad and coleslaw. Continuing in the US$8 to US$10 line - the 'cheaper' travel through food on the street - it would be unforgivable not to mention the St. Lawrence Gap's after-hours of night clubbing lot whose grills waft of aromas of barbecued fish and chicken.
Take a trip into Cheapside Market in Bridgetown, upstairs in the Food Court. Here you can meet Harriet and her famous pork stew, green banana coucou (no corn meal just mashed and turned banana), sweet potato pie or Miss Dora's Pudding and Souse (pig intestine filled with sweet potato and spices and all manner of 'pig features' in lime, cucumber, parsley and onion - the traditional Saturday morning fare).
Miss Pilgrim, a few stalls away, cooks the meanest ham - a cutter from her doused with Bajan Peppersauce (yellow because of the mustard used) is a joy to itself. Look out for the van ladies. These enterprising women have every imaginable food on heated trays at the back of their well-appointed vehicles - a meal from them is worth every single bit of the US$4-5 they charge. Flying Fish, Dolphin Creole, Pork Chops, Braised Beef, Fried or Baked Chicken, macaroni pie, sweet potato pie, yam pie, rice and peas, potato salad, vegetables - man! A veritable feast on wheels.
NOW LET'S GO CHINESE
St. Lawrence Gap has daily specials at US$10 and there's enough for two. Gwan Dong on Worthing Main Road proper and Century closer to Rock Dundo round-about are really worth a visit. For Italian there's Luigi's in Dover (a tad up market), Bellini's at the Gap, Mama Mia on Hastings Main Road - the latter is more like a small delicatessen and bistro with some fabulous Lasagne. Indian food is found at the famously haunted castle-type premises on Worthing. Zafran has authentic classical Indian, Persian and Thai cuisine - their pukka curries and tandoori specialities are unreal.
Barbados goes Greek with Opa! Meaning Hello or Welcome this restaurant does just that. On the Hastings Main Road, the sign is loud and clear, the restaurant sitting on a tiny beach with overlapping waves. Delve into Greece with Melitzanosalata, Taramasalata, Tirokafteri, Tzaliki and Hummus - all appetiser dips - served up with pitta triangles or touch their Moussaka. Talk about good and the prices are reasonable - US$50 for two can get you dancing with Zorba the Greek. For Bajan up-market, there's David's where an authentic Arawak Pepperpot is the order of the night. The Waterfront Café right on the Bridgetown marina specialises in all manner of Caribbean cuisine with the added attraction of jazz nights. Their menu includes our Jamaican jerk - my favourite is the melts which are the roe of the flying fish.
GOOD CHOICE
Chefette is the local fast food and all in all can be considered to have a pretty good choice - my favourite being their grill section with salad bar. The only other allowed on the island is Kentucky Fried Chicken - McDonalds failed miserably years ago. On the Rendezvous Road a touch of Trinidad seems to have seeped in. There's the 'doubles lady' on one side and 'Fish & Bake' on the other. Shark which is the original Trini dish, was not appreciated by Bajans so king or dolphin is used. Now doubles are two light fried bakes (an Indian crepe if you will) one side filled with curried channa (chick peas), topped with Chadon Bennie (wild coriander) Sauce and Trini Pepper, then topped and folded into a double and wrapped in brown paper with a twist on either end. Bake is slightly more dense, fried until puffy, opened and stuffed with fish, salad and any other accoutrements available.
PRICES
Now let's start climbing the ladder of prices. On that famous Platinum West Coast there is the famous Cliff Restaurant (reservations are said to be sometimes taken two years in advance!) but it's worth the view, the service and the star watching - and I mean those in the skies and on the big screen! Hang out at The Mews in Holetown's second street. Travel even further up and there's The Fish Pot above Speightstown (the island's second biggest town and where the first settlers arrived aeons ago), La Mer at Port St. Charles where Bajan Nick King fixes up some fare for yep! Kings or even, Mannie's Suga Suga on the beautiful silver beach of Mullins Bay. Calabaza, Carambola and Daphne's where ambience, service and food are a must - these restaurants are on the way to all the rest along the west coast road and all are on the water. Be prepared to empty your pockets.
While you are on this coast you might want to stop off at Crock's Den and meet 'the crocodile' himself - this bar is a trip and this is where the west coast hangs out 'till the wee hours of the morning. Oh! the newest very high-end restaurant is on the south coast, the Gap to be exact - The Restaurant at Southsea with Barbadian Chef Barry Taylor taking you an on Epicurean trip of ecstasy with dishes such as Foccacia Breadcrumb Crusted Veal Medallions or Cilantro and Snow Crab Tortellini. I have to say that in Barbados all prices are quoted in Bajan dollars and spending US$100 (J$6,400) a head can get you a most charmed evening - as I said before go higher and get more than charmed.
DESSERTS
If you want to taste desserts that are beyond compare with prices to suit, Patisserie & Bistro Flindt both on the south and west will tantalise your tastebuds to the end. Even the non-tourist east coast has its spots - The Cove known for its Sunday Buffets and Round House for the best flying fish pate I have ever tasted - the scenery on that side of the island is too much for the eyes - heaven.
I have only mentioned a few of the many, many restaurants available - all you have to do is pick up a Visitor or an Inns & Out (both free magazines low, middle and very up-market) and you will be traumatised even trying to make up your mind. Now remember too that some are better than others like everywhere you go in this world. Do not be afraid to complain if you feel cheated in any way!
RECOMMENDATIONS
This trip I began by visiting Pisces Seafood Restaurant on St. Lawrence Gap. Pisces has always had an iffy reputation but there's no doubt that for placement - right on the waters of the St. Lawrence Bay - it has always been magnificent. To my surprise, Bajan Chef Larry Rogers and his wife Michelle have taken over this most deserved spot, this team having given the west coast Olives and La Terra with their eclectic Mediterranean/Bajan gourmet cuisine.
I had the Caribbean Crab Cakes with grilled pineapple chutney and herb cream - total perfection. For entrees there was Tuna with local asparagus and for me New Zealand Lamb Shanks slowly braised, served on creamed potatoes with seasonal vegetables and covered in a rosemary glaze. Divine. The good service and the perfect starry night and twinkling lights on the sea made the entire evening very, very special.
Jeanette Layne-Clarke (Barbados' Louise Bennet) invited me to 39 Steps. Anyone remember the old movie? This restaurant is set in an enclave of 'chattel house' type architecture. I began with local spinach crepes filled with goat cheese, my companion had the soup of the day - pea and ham. Both were amazing. The crepes were melt in the mouth and the combination of spinach and tangy goat cheese easily the best I have tasted. Blackened King Fish served with vegetables of the day and white rice proved to be a treat. It really was a joy to eat 'clean' food - for this is how it all tasted. Fresh, clean - just ready to excite the tastebuds.
And then the piece de resistance - the Belgian Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Ice Cream. That was it - I was in la la land again! I later found out that Chef Joseph, famed for owning, training and selling The Mews on the West Coast, Joseph's on St. Lawrence Gap had his hand in this little pie too having trained every member under his care, has left the shores of Barbados to open in Chicago - no doubt bringing a touch of Barbadian to the windy city although he is actually originally from Austria.
Now I can only ponder this question. Why not Jamaica? This island has been in the tourism business from time immemorial - before Barbados even thought of expanding its horizons into this area. Yet apart from the wonderful local cook shops, small restaurants and jerk stands - maybe one or two restaurants spread in between - it seems to me that the all-inclusives have it when it comes to cuisine. There are two restaurants I can put my head on a block for Passage to India with Anil and Rajni Sud and Chef Norma Shirley's Norma's On The Terrace. I know good food, great service and fabulous ambience and it's time we all pull ourselves together in this country and start providing it. We have all the necessary natural agricultural products, the best in seasonings and spices, the top in meats and seafood, so what's the problem?
One of the things I noticed in Barbados is that owners and chefs of the restaurants never leave the premises - they take time off only in the off-season and even then, ensure that every member of staff and their managers are perfectly trained and know exactly how to keep the place going without faltering or else - heads will roll.
May all in the restaurant business sit back, take note and make 2006 the best in dining. May those who are considering opening new restaurants, take the time to look at what is required and do it well. A happy and prosperous New Year to all of you.
