Rosemary Parkinson, Gleaner Writer
At Left: Joy Blythe (right), with daughter Joy has been working at Dragon Lounge for a very long time.
Right: Nothing like a Sunday morning breakfast of liver with yam, boiled green bananas and cornmeal dumplings, with a dash of Pickapeppa or Grace Pepper Sauce. - PHOTOS BY ROSEMARY PARKINSON
THE WEEK had me pondering on the lack of independent fine dining restaurants in this country. Looking at Barbados' improvement over the last year (last week's review) has brought some facts to mind. Jamaica has been in the tourism business from time immemorial - before Barbados even thought of these horizons - yet, apart from the wonderful cookshops, small local-food restaurants and jerk stands, the all-inclusive fine dining restaurants are the ones that have what it takes.
I have to give special kudos to SuperClubs in this regard. Can you imagine? Looking back into 2005, that in the whole of this country I can only put my head on a block for two independent restaurants. I do happen to know good tasting food, great service and fabulous ambience. Now, please don't get me wrong - even the best of eating places can have, understandably, a problem or two on occasion. But problems should be small, simple things, easily rectified by management right at the moment the situation has reared its head. As a customer, patron, client, I demand value for my
hard-earned money.
COMING THIS YEAR
For 2006 I will be going farther afield again, visiting places I have not been to yet (and I will admit there are many), dropping into a few I have already written about. The time has come - let's get it right in 2006. That means pulling all plugs to ensure that collectively this country starts the process required to achieve top quality eateries - especially in our sadly-lacking capital city Kingston, and our tourist towns Ocho Rios and Montego Bay.
Jamaica has amazing natural agricultural products, the best in seasonings and spices, the top in meats and seafood, gourmet imports and top-notch wines. We have people happy for work and special training. I've heard, "but people don't want to work". People don't want work at wages that hardly provides a decent life, that's true. I've heard "you train them and they leave you". Well, guess what, that is world-wide. So create back-ups. How about training here or abroad under a special contract with a pay-back plan? Problems are solvable if they are not ignored. I sometimes feel that we have people with money who open restaurants for 'status' without fully understanding this life. For it is a life. A life that is hard, difficult and one you must absolutely have a passion for.
Here's my first 'Let's get it right tip' for the year. If you have a restaurant already - stop, think, plan and put the necessary action into place to make it perfect - even if you have to work it yourself. Don't be ashamed to ask if you are in bad shape or not, or too arrogant to think you are just fine as you are.
Planning to open a new spot? Get yourself abroad, visit great eateries; or simply read every 'foodie' magazine you can get; go up on the websites and study, study, study the business. Find the correct niche, do it and do it well! But again - do it with passion.
Sweet food, sweet price
And now for an eatery that is an institution on Kent Avenue, Whitehouse, Montego Bay - next door to my favourite curry and roti place, Miss Evelyn's. Dragon Seafood Restaurant & Bar opens at 6:30 a.m. and closes at 11:00 p.m., providing the best in local food at the right price. There is a cute little bar but food is their business. One of my favourite dishes is their liver - not always on the menu but one call, as I have just done, and eureka! Soon I shall be collecting same, swimming in divine gravy, pumping me with some much needed iron.
SWEET, SWEET FOOD
Let me give you the available traditional feast at Dragon, depending on what Denton, Gloria or Ajani is cooking for the day. Breakfast can consist of Ackee and Saltfish, Corn Pork, Stewed Chicken, Liver, Kidney, Heart and Light, Saltfish, Mackerel, Steam Fish - all with food and out-of-this-world dumplings - and I am not a fan of dumplings. Lunches and dinner might bring Oxtail, Curry Goat, Stew Pork, Tripe and Beans, Cow Foot, Pig Trotters, Fried Chicken, Lobster, Shrimp, Sea Cat, Conch and Fish. And it's all good. Owners Sybil and Peter Tebart obviously know what makes an institution.
Joy Blythe, for instance, has been working there for most of the over 30 years this place has been opened. Together with Jennifer Smith, they keep those plates coming out fast and furious. One can eat indoors in typical fashion - colourful plastic tablecloths and flowers - or outdoors under the shade of those good old Jamaican almond trees. Takeaways and catering are provided. Nuff said. I'm off to get my liver, so 'til next time.
Note: Kate Jarret (daughter-
in-law of Pat Wright, cosmetologist/aesthetician/fashion designer), is having an art exhibition at Round Hill from January 25 to February 1. Saw some of the work - gorgeous. So apart from the Jazz & Blues Festival - there's something more to look forward to in the western end of the island at month-end.
Let's today embrace the past with remembrances and the future with longing. The Prophet, Kahlil Gibran.
