Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
Left: Rasta and CoCo at their vegetable stall. Right: This food vendor in the Falmouth market is cooking up a storm on wooden fires. - CONTRIBUTED PHOTOS
This is part three of The Gleaner's food reviewer, Rosemary Parkinson's series on the rich history of Caribbean foods.
IN A world inhabited by nomadic humans, it's difficult to ascertain the absolute truth about the history of food. What we can say is that when the European explorers came to the Caribbean they had already been to Africa and Asia.
I prefer the word Caribbean to West Indies - it sets us apart from the rest of the world paying homage to the Amerindian discoverers who rowed unmercifully (can you imagine that hot sun, those enormous waves and sharks?) up and across from South and Central America respectively.
A very irate email received by The Gleaner from a university lecturer of geography and social studies, University of the West Indies, Mona (1998-2003) originally from an 'African village on the Guyana coastland' now living in Aberdeen, Scotland, claims I marginalise the African contribution to Caribbean foods and is, 'taken aback by the way she (me) is appropriating the culinary delights of one group of people and passing it over to another' claiming cassava, callaloo and bananas as African. A lecture followed on things African - Okra, foo-foo, gari, yams, ackee, plantain including mangoes and peppers in the melee. I, by the way, had not even begun to write about Africa.
I love to learn. Anyone who has better sources than I do, please send information. But I have ascertained (so far) that Theophrates was not blind. Travelling through India with Alexander The Great in 336 BC he saw bananas, brought some 2,000 years before from Malaysia across the Indian Ocean into Africa and the Canary Islands from whence they were brought to our shores. My ancestors were 'Barbadosed' from England in the 1600s but I am no more British than foo-foo. Guess what though - those bananas once here created a diverse lot claimed now to be the best and sweetest of them all.
All reports say cassava is an Amerindian staple taken to Africa. Some feel the Africans and Amerindians did 'trade' before even the Europeans knew what 'ah gwaan' purporting maize in Africa and the new world at the same time. I cannot get my knickers in a twist about semantics but, I will over peppers! Sorry doctor, dem definitely ours!
THE WRITTEN WORD
Chef Edward sits down to a family lunch of Jamaican Indian specialties. - CONTRIBUTED PHOTOS
Unfortunately, symbols in grains of sand, drawings in caves, stories brought down through the rocks of ages and later the written word in a myriad of languages have all been analysed, stretched, pulled at, investigated, hauled over the coals, jerked if you will, and we're still left guessing over the origins of life far less food. One thing me know fi sure. Born in Venezuela (neighbouring Guyana) of Trini, Bajan, Grenadian and Jamaican ancestry, I have physically scoured Veni and most islands in the Caribbean; seen pure and semi-pure Amerindian villages but, in my 60 years I am yet to come across an African village on these lands - unless, of course, one counts the Bobo Shanti in Bull Bay whose claim that Jamaica does not exist had me querying my existence once I left their enclave. What I have seen is Venezuelan and Caribbean cities, towns and villages made up of a pot-pourri of people that are extraordinary. Their reason for being here? Divine intervention. Matter done.
In my desire to save the bess fi last, I shall touch on other influences quickly - please no wrath for not giving lengthy exactitudes here. Chinese seasonings are on every good Caribbean kitchen shelf. Pak Choi - a leafy Chinese legume is much enjoyed. Dashes of Soya go into most pots and, there is this definite Chinese restaurant-fetish we have for dishes whose aromatic performance can outdo the best of theatre. The Indians donated spices like curry - succulent-to-the-bone curry goat mopped up with roti or rice and peas, a few boiled banana to the side gets taste-buds scrambling. The Middle East -their pita breads, hummus etc., fine stuff. There's no doubt - so much has been brought to the table. Search the web or libraries for information.'
Ahhh..Africa. Africans sold by their own, inveigled with baubles and trinkets by Europeans, removed from their families, thrown into despicable conditions and shipped off to lands unknown as slaves - a trade that still continues. Caribbean people seem to forgive this horror story by purchasing products made by these tears - wearing some, eating some without compunction. Check it.
Africans forced to these lands by Europeans did not know then that the endured struggle would result in a resolve and (should result in) a pride of immeasurable proportions. Their resolve fought for freedom and got it. Their pride - every brick and mortar laid down, every staircase and roof, the cornerstones of amazing historic buildings that should be restored and kept pristine in their memory. Cooking foods in the kitchens of these buildings; their agricultural expertise in the fields; their own distinct African culinary arts; all forced a blend of their own staples such as okra, yam (and other tubers), banana, plantain, ackee and herbs with those from other lands, such as breadfruit and codfish brought in for their sustenance. Add to this mortar and pestle the African knowledge of Amerindian cuisine; grind in a cornucopia of meats, fruits and vegetables further placed into their culinary hands with emancipation and this was the result - a fabulous delicious melting pot, the real base of today's Caribbean cuisine. Each island still individual but with Amerindian, Spanish, English, French, German, Dutch, African, Indian, Chinese, Middle Eastern ancestry and influences. Jamaica is obviously no different and yes! Africa had the biggest impact of all on Caribbean cuisine.
What do we really need to learn? If we want our traditions to remain, our agricultural lands must work again, agro-tourism is the way of the future. Buy from farmers or higglers. Stop the incessant imports. All-inclusives - adopt a traditional restaurant/cookshop, rum bar in your area. Don't change their funkiness - just ensure the prerequisites are adhered to and send your people. You learn yet that a few mouths less to feed on an-already-paid-package-trip brings savings to you?
What do we have to do? Inform ourselves. Clean up. Get washrooms up to standard. Stop imitating. Nothing wrong with restaurants with overseas menus but what's ours must be, fine. Visitors have their senses - they don't require being hauled unmercifully into stores, jerk huts, restaurants, rum bars or need 'a guide' to walk them down a street - unless they ask. And most importantly - service with a Jamaican smile. It's natural so why not share it!
Walk good and let's keep 'the foodies' right here inna Jamaica clambering for more. And for those going to Calabash Literary Festival this weekend in St. Elizabeth. Enjoy! For those not - try a moonlight Saturday dinner at The Gap in the divine Blue Mountains. Call Dexcar Denton 480 6680.
