Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
Uli keeps himself busy as a bee at Aquarium Restaurant.
The island of Grenada, like all our Caribbean islands, is blessed with a cuisine that has been touched by its turbulent historic past and whose recipe reads like this: Take a pinch from the Carib Indians who fought relentlessly to keep spoonfuls of "the white Frenchmen" at bay, throwing themselves to their death at Leaper's Hill rather than be captured; blend in a cup of the English who finally were awarded the island in 1783 when the Treaty of Versailles was signed; add pounds of Africa, and later India, to the pot; sprinkle lightly with Cuba that was on board there for awhile, drizzling in some grated influences from international chefs who have found the spice isle to their liking and what do you have? A pot of divine intervention filled with food touched by the goodness of spices that grow almost wild on the lush lands that make up this volcanic island.
Exciting and delicious
From callaloo (made from dasheen leaves) and crab, crab backs (using land crab), oil 'dung (a mixture of provisions, dumplings, salted pork or cod boiled down in coconut milk), to stewed manicou (wild opossum) or tatoo (armadillo), pork, chicken and curried mutton to the delicious Amerindian pepperpot prepared with meats (no lamb), in a large clay pot called a canaree and doused with casareep (a preserving derivative of the poisonous juice of the cassava) - boiled daily, this pepperpot can last for many, many years. Suffice it to say that Grenada's food is exciting and delicious. So much so that several hotels have taken the unprecedented move realising the potential of "cooking holidays" and offer same to "foodies" from all over the world. Maca Bana Villas - Grenada's new secret - is one of them.
'Maca' is the Arawak word for tree and 'Bana' is a place for dwelling. Set on the spectacular hillside of Point Salines overlooking Magazine Bay, these villas - with wide decks made of hardwood from the forests of Guyana finished with balustrades of twisted local cedar - have designer kitchens that are made specifically to ensure that your cooking lessons can be had in the lap of luxury.
By the way, for those who may not love having their hands filled with all manner of local vegetables or meats, have same tutored in fine arts by Rebecca (the creative side of the partnership who owns the property), or even allow them and your body to be massaged to perdition by Belle - a German-Grenadian - whose strength belies her petite size. Just call and organise it all with manager Michaela - she's just the best.
The Aquarium Restaurant
Below the villas and on the beach is the Aquarium Restaurant. Here Uli (the other half of this resort), oversees the staff having personally trained every one (and they him), in all manner of good Grenadian service brandishing a cuisine that fuses his German background and love of world food with pure island historic flavour. During the week (except Mondays), it's all about exquisite lunches and dinners but Sundays, the whole complex comes alive with an all-day barbecue and dance to live sounds by their in-house band.
Having watched Grenadian Randy Daysant giving a cooking lesson to my mother - a great cook in her own right - I visited him as he manned the barbecue at Aquarium for some information. Randy has been working with Uli for about nine years. According to him, when he came to Aquarium he only knew how to cook a few local dishes.
"One day, my mother was late coming home from work. She left me some peas to shell. The other children were so hungry I just started cooking for them. I made rice and peas, forgot the coconut milk, but, it tasted good and since then I have not stopped cooking." Now that he has 'just about'
Mastered both gourmet local and international dishes under the tutorship of Uli, Randy constantly reads or watches the Food Network in order to keep up with what is going on outside of Grenada and loves sharing his natural talent with those who visit Maca Bana for a 'gastronomical' holiday.
"One of my special wishes for Grenada is that the local farmers would be more consistent in their growing of produce. They have to organise themselves better so that we don't have only tomatoes one month, and lettuce the next but a consistent production of everything because all chefs, even the foreign ones, love our produce and provisions but need a constant supply. I love the challenge of cooking - every day there is another one and I just run with and learn from it."
Maca Bana Villas and Aquarium Restaurant
www.macabana.com
E-mail: macabana@caribsurf.com
www.aquarium-grenada.com
Telephone: Maca Bana (473) 439 5355
Aquarium: (473) 444 1410
Recipe for the triangular -looking bites in the appetiser section and is a specialty of Aquarium
spanakopita
Ingredients for two persons
8 oz. callaloo (or spinach)
1 tea spoon of melted butter
Half a large onion
1 sheet of fillo dough
1 garlic clove
1 tsp sesame seeds
1 seasoning pepper salt & pepper
2 table spoons of olive oil
1 oz. of shredded cheddar cheese
PREPARATION
1. Pre-heat the pot, pour olive oil in
2. Add garlic, onion and seasoning pepper finely chopped
3. Add callaloo, salt & pepper to taste
4. Cover pot and let simmer for about 15 minutes
6. Let callaloo cool down for about 5 minutes; add cheddar cheese and mix the ingredients
7. Wrap callaloo mix in the dough in a triangular shape, seal the edges with melted butter and put sesame seeds and top
8. Put in the oven for 7 minutes (350¡ Fahrenheit)
Serve with basil pesto
Grenadian Pepperpot
INGREDIENTS
Six pounds of various cuts of poultry, beef and pork (no mutton). Place into canaree (or crock pot) to marinate overnight with 10 fluid
ounces of casareep (sold commercially in bottles).
The next day, add a three-inch stick of cinnamon
12 cloves
4 bay leaves
2 hot peppers (whole)
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon each powdered onion and garlic (do not use fresh)
1 teaspoon each of powdered oregano, thyme, coriander, salt and pepper.
Add four cups water, bring to a boil and let simmer for about 4 hours.
Taste for salt.
Every day bring pepperpot to boil. Once the pepperpot is boiled daily, there is no need for refrigeration. Whenever fresh meats are added,
quarter cup of cassareep must also be added. Pepperpot is delicious over white rice with ripe fried plantains on the side.
Maca Bana Tuna
Ingredients
1 large Tuna Steak - about 1" thick
Fish seasoning or just salt and pepper
Finely chopped parsley
METHOD
1. Season fish lightly with seasoning. In a hot skillet, place about a teaspoon of oil.
2. Allow to heat without burning. Sear the tuna on either side leaving the centre rare.
3. Remove from pan immediately. Sprinkle with parsley.
4. Serve with steamed cauliflower, carrots and christophene (chocho) al dente, sprinkled with garlic butter.
A baked or mashed potato may also be added to the dish.
Garlic Butter
Finely chop 2 teaspoons fresh garlic, 1 teaspoon parsley and add to 2 tablespoons melted butter. Add salt and black pepper to taste.
