Rosemary Parkinson, Glaner Writer
Left: Damian Harrington with gold medal-winning dish. Right: Keith Brown plating the finished meal. - Photos by Rosemary Parkinson
Like Willie Nelson's classic song 'I am on the road again', thanks to Mockingbird Hill Hotel, Portland, for their delicious food, and most welcome warmth. From Portland it was Hedonism III for their annual jerk festival - this time one with a big difference. The 56th annual celebration of the Merritone family that brought people from all corners of Jamaica and the world swinging to the sweet sounds of yesteryear. Those oldies but goodies had couples dancing cheek to cheek even in the swimming pools!
First - the mysteries of tea. Marlene Harley, a.k.a. 'Queen Audrey', was in-house at Hedonism III. I found myself having my tea leaves read by this lady. From music to tea to gourmet delights we move on to two days of one-hour long, very competitive cook-offs, starting Saturday with Rising Stars (young apprentices in the Hedo kitchen) Diana Henry-Green, Calvin Beason, Dwayne Cross and Burgman Davis.
Sunday belonged to to executive/celebrity chefs - Executive Sous Chef, Carl Thomas (HEART Trust Hotel and College), Sous Chef Damion Harrington (Grand Lido Braco), Executive Sous Chef Joseph Kalynuik and Sous Chef Keith Brown (Hedonism Resort III). For the first time, judges were faced with impeccable professionalism from all and sundry, making decisions all the more difficult. One thing me can say - these guys could have given Iron Chef a run for their money! Serious!
Rules and Judges' Criteria
There was a common table filled with produce, spices and wines to choose from.
Rising Stars got one surprise meat while (unknown to them), the executive chefs got two.
Ten minutes was given for the competitors to write their menu once their choices were made from the general produce table and the meat was unveiled. This was then presented to the judges.
Each contestant had a separate table with two burner stove and equal necessary utensils.
Three exact same entrees were to be prepared and plated - one for judges, one for presentation to guests and one for press photo opportunities.
One hour was allotted for the completion of these three dishes.
The judges now had 10 points to be allotted to each contestant for the following:
Use of local produce
Creativity (how the sauces, the relishes, the whole dish were all prepared with usage of spices etc. playing a major role here)
Presentation
Taste
Standard of cleanliness of work area.
Once the competitions began, the Rising Stars got tenderloin, the executive chefs got grey snapper and tenderloin.
Rising Stars
Saturday's Rising Stars took off to a fine start. Dianne Henry-Green having chosen Spicy Stuffed Tenderloin served with Spicy Curry Sauce accompanied by Mashed Breadfruit, Garlic Buttered Vegetable garnished with Match Stick Potato. Burgman Davis was all about Herb Crusted Tenderloin with Thyme, Basil and Rosemary served with Steamed Callaloo cooked with Green and Yellow Peppers and Carrots over a Rosemary Potato. Dwayne Cross chose Seared Beef Steak with Herb Potato and Vegetable Medley. Calvin Beason's menu read as Beef in Minestrone topped with Flavoured Butter served with Potato Wedges and Carrots.
Judges were totally impressed with the level of workmanship and finished dishes of the young ones. Even in moments of despair like when Burgman's skillet fell over, hot oil and all, within two-twos, as calm as ever, he recovered to produce a fine entré albeit a tad too much salt within his sauce. Tastes on the whole were excellent, with presentations all top class. The exception was Dianne who although beating all contestants with her amazing use of local produce, understanding of flavours and impeccably focused way of dealing with the task at hand, requires knowledge in the art of presentation. This little downfall prevented her from getting full marks. Take this child under your wing Chef Cole she has places to go!
Congrats to Calvin Beason's second place, Burgman Davis' third, Dwayne Cross' fourth. It was tough on judges as all were so close. Advise for the runners up: use more Caribbean produce - you shied away from our beautiful Caribbean goodies and that's a big no-no in today's world of cuisine. Caribbean food is hot all over the world now?
Executives and Celebrities
By Sunday guests, having enjoyed Saturday's excitement, had spread the word - the hall was filled to capacity for the top guns. It was a case of two Canadian Jamaicaphiles against two born and bred. I must say this lot seemed more nervous than the Rising Stars and a lot of pacing the floor took place! Carl Thomas chose Cardiff Hall Surf and Turf, Keith Brown was all about Stuffed Beef with Calaloo accompanied by Gray Snapper Served with Saffron Sauce, Potato and a medley of vegetables. Damion Harrington went for Seared Beef Tenderloin, Cauliflower Dumpling and Tomato Salsa served with Roasted Onion accompanied on the side by Snapper Mille Fieulle with Plantain, Pear, Calaloo and a secret sauce. Joseph Kalynuik's menu read Gray Snapper, Farfalle Pasta with Snapper Gouda Cream Sauce accompanied by Smoked Beef Tenderloin and Rosemary Hollandaise Sauce. Once the heat was on and the contestants on their way, judges walked around anticipating great things from Heart's Carl Thomas and Joseph Kalynuik whose dishes were emanating aromas that shouted 'to-die-for'. Kalynuik's butchering skills were exceptional - a champion in the bchamel production too. Keith Brown was organised and calm, rolling his perfectly seasoned beef around calaloo, keeping his workplace tidy and clean. Damion was the enigma. Seemingly a little lost at times, wandering around for a spoon or a particular pot, not wanting to chat, ignoring the cameras, he gave out a vibe of being up to something. Pretending that he didn't know what he was doing in order to squash the competition, perhaps?
An innovative way of smoking used by two chefs - Carl Thomas and Kalynuik - had judges excited. They placed hickory chips between two skillets until the smoke was thick. Once gathered within the two pots the meat was then inserted to add that special smoky flavour.
But, there is always one winner. Points were so close it was a shame. Unfortunately Carl Thomas's dish required taste - difficult to understand after all those wonderful aromas. Kalynuik fell in presentation. All failed in the usage of local products except the newest Canadian on the block, Damian Harrington, whose two dishes blew the minds of judges. Exceptional in taste, texture and creativity he won hands down with his cauliflower dumplings and that ChoCho, Plantain, Tomato Salsa that was truly divine. Keith Browne made it to second place, with Carl Thomas just inching his way over Kalynuik - points are points but I would have thought Kalynuik should have placed third.
The stupid mind thinks of possession, the man of insight thinks of utility. Intuition. Knowing Beyond Logic. Osho.
