Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor

Left: Shereen with breadfruit pie.   Right: Black pudding from Elizabeth at Bon Accord. - Photos by Rosemary Parkinson

Tobago, sister isle of Trinidad, best known for its Bucco Reef, is also surrounded by other magnificent scuba diving sites. Here, manta rays and fish of all hues allow you into their world without a wink, while keeping a close watch on yachts that sail above, particularly during the famous Angostura Sail Week, May 13-18.

Its quaint capital, Scarborough, with its mixture of old and new buildings looking out to sea, bustles with small coves with pristine beaches, waterfalls that cascade into rivers and picturesque fishing villages. Charlotteville still shows a serene life where fishermen pull seine or unload from shark to king fish daily from their boats (called pirogues). It is also the birthplace of now famous footballer Dwight Yorke and home of the Tobago Heritage Festival. Held in July, this event showcases the best of culture, traditions, cuisine and old sugar and cocoa plantations - one of the latter being revived for agri-tourism by Tobagonian Duane Dove.

All of these stand hand in hand with small guest houses, international hotels and golf courses, but Tobago was not always tranquil. Historically fought over furiously by many rival European powers, the island saw its share of blood and horror before finally settling under British rule and ultimately part of the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago, with the Tobago House of Assembly managing most of its affairs.

With ICC Cricket World Cup 2007 around the corner and many wanting alternatives to the anticipated confusion, Tobago is an option. Cutting across from Trinidad by a surprisingly modern and fast ferry for just over US$8 for a one-way ticket, we travelled to the north coast through the Gran Boca. This is one of the many 'mouths' between the islands off the west coast of Trinidad dotted with holiday homes. The trip affords views of the majestic northern range before leaving the coastline towards Tobago. Food and drink are available, such as the large cow heel soup that was as delicious as the journey.

Beach, Food and Drink Tobago

The round of stops included Pigeon Point Beach, the amazing Miss Esme and Miss Trim at Store Bay with their 'blue food'; a fine Italian Restaurant - La Tartaruga - that has one of the finest wine cellars in the Caribbean; Colours Restaurant, owned by retired BWIA pilot, Steve Dolly; danced under the stars at Shades nightclub; ate the crispiest fried chicken at Block 22 on Bon Accord, and imbibed a beer or three at Maurice Murray's Brown Betty in the heart of Scarborough. I decided to go for something totally different - a tour with nature and food and Trini/Tobagonian David Rooks - ornithologist, author, international lecturer, avid environmentalist and a walking encyclopaedia - if there ever was one.

David's Trek

Tobago's main forest ridge has been protected since 1776, making it one of the oldest examples of eco-consciousness in the western hemisphere. Although we were not heading right into the mainstream of this, David Rooks was taking me to Speyside on its edge where a boat ride with David Roberts on his Fear Not boat over to Little Tobago. This island has been protected as a sanctuary since 1926, was once the home of the Greater Bird of Paradise, literally blown away by Hurricane Flora in '63, but now inhabited by some 45 different species of birds.

Clambering up and down forest lanes was not without its due rewards. I saw the amazing Mot Mot with its 'Zorro'-masked eyes and a nesting baby Red Tropic Bird, later seeing its mother nurturing it totally undisturbed by my camera and peering eyes. I was in awe. Harpers and Queen said of David, "You can learn more in a morning in his company than is possible through any other source," and it is true.

Jemma's Tree House

Hungry and with every bone and muscle aching, I was ready to return to the concrete jungle to partake of the food part of our tour. Jemma's, set on the seaside almost totally enveloped within trees, is where good, clean traditional Tobago food is cooked with love and flair by a group of ladies under the watchful eye of Jemma Sealy and her daughters. Started in 1984 with two tables, Jemma can now accommodate over 100 starving souls. It was "bad management" in the hotel where she worked that forced Jemma to go out on her own. She hated that visitors from abroad who constantly asked for local food were left unsatisfied, so quitting the job she opened her own spot.

With fresh local vegetables, beef and goat, daily fish and lobster, Jemma's is now the main stopping point for tour buses filled with 'foodies' from all over the world. We had a fine, well-seasoned large king fish steak Creole style (covered in a sauce of tomatoes and onions), a delightful breadfruit pie, rice and peas, vegetables and tossed salad with a freshly-squeezed glass of orange juice.

Back to Scarborough

Through the winding roads that led us to Speyside passing magnificent views of cliffs and coves, we took our time returning to 'town'. But not before stopping for a look at a typical old estate home with its covered corridor leading to the outside kitchen. Kitchens were always away from the main house because of cooking smells and fear of fires.

'Elizabeth' was next. Side-ah-road at Penny Savers on Bon Accord from Thursday to Friday, Elizabeth serves up cow skin, chicken foot and pig foot souse accompanied by the most scrumptious spicy black pudding (obviously Elizabeth's secret recipe, although I detected a touch of chadon beeni, a wild coriander). The souse was perfect with just the right amount of lime in its accompanying brine. Totally delicious!

DAVID ROOKS

Website: www.rookstobago.com

Email: rookstobago@yahoo.com

Rosemary Parkinson was last seen trampling through the forest speaking to birds and furry animals.

The fish is cut in steaks straight from the sea.