Ebony is the best for local food.Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor
Wow! What a food tour this has been. There have been some problems in many of the islands because of ICC rules and security regulations, so getting to and from restaurants at the venues during the day has not been promising. The nights, however, tend to be better. There is, so far, a lot of disappointment among the locals as to the extent of 'great business' this cricket was going to bring. But, it is after all, about cricket.
What a game against Ireland last Friday! Sabina Park was in true form. It seems to me that it's in Jamaica that the stands are full with people certainly letting it all out, having a ball and really getting into the excitement. But we are now off to Grenada as cricket winds its way towards this Isle of Spice.
The three-island state of Grenada (Carriacou & Petit Martinique included),with its picturesque capital and port St. George's, was sighted by Columbus and called Concepcion but the Spanish never set foot on the island. Better sense must have prevailed because when the British tried to establish themselves here, the local Carib Indians would have none of it. The French attempted with all manner of baubles, trinkets, even booze, but fierce battles ensued.
When the Caribs saw defeat ahead at the hands of gun-bearing Europeans, men, women and children threw themselves over Leaper's Hill in a mass suicide that showed their abhorrence of submitting to the dubious benefits of European colonisation. This strength of mind must be still embedded in the psyche of Grenadians, for even though devastated by Hurricane Ivan a few years ago, the island people rallied together and there's hardly much of the devastation to be seen today.
In 1783, the Treaty of Versailles (after many wars for its ownership), finally awarded Grenada to Great Britain. Today, this beautiful independent island includes rainforests, mangroves, rivers, waterfalls, white beaches, clear blue seas and captivating coral reefs. Its mountainous spine (Mount St. Catherine) and its other peak (Mount Qua Qua), are topped by the Grand Etang crater where locals enjoy fishing, boating and picnicking.
CUISINE & TRIVIA
Ali and his spice rum.
The cuisine of Grenada is what is termed Creole (or mix-up of culture), enhanced by the wide variety of spices found here - nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla and ginger. Its national dish is the 'Oildown' (pronounced oild-dong) consisting of salted meats, breadfruit, dasheens, dumplings, loads of seasonings and spices cooked in coconut milk. Grenadian caviar is the roe of the white sea egg; with stuffed jacks (a fish dish) and conch appearing on many restaurant menus.
The oldest distiller is the River Antoine Rum Distillery - bought in 1785 for 200 - the rum it produces so strong it's not allowed on commercial flights! St. George's market is filled with the sweet noises of patois banter; its craft section brimming with all manner of baskets, hats and spices of all types; its little huts serving up local breakfasts doused with hot fresh cocoa-tea.
A trip by ferry to Carriacou is a delight. The favoured rum is Westerhall. The best nutmeg Liqueur - De La Grenade. Mr. Edwin Frank - Grenada Tourist Board, telephone: (473) 440 2279 is a wealth of information. So is their driver Roger Constantine.
Best tour guide: Kennedy Jawahir (encyclopedia Britanica of history).
A must trip is the Dougaldston Estate and the Nutmeg Processing Plant near Victoria.
If you're a chocolate freak - the Grenada Chocolate Factory offers divine dark organic chocolate.
Ali's "every-little-ting" shop at The Cruise Terminal offers various spiced rums - one of which might stop you from attending cricket - so watch it!
Best free magazine: Destination Grenada.
Eating at gourmet spots in Grenada with wine could set you back from EC$100/400 each, depending where and what you eat. Prices given are for starters upwards.
EATERIES MOST FAVOURED
Processing nutmeg. - photos by Rosemary Parkinson
Aquarium Beach Club & Restaurant. On Magazine Beach. Best dinners and Sunday barbecue lime. Menu from EC$10 up. Try Coconut-Cilantro Thai Chicken Soup. From EC$15 up. To make reservations call: (473) 444 1410. Their villas - Maca Bana - overlooking the restaurant are a joy for comfort, design and magnificent view. For reservations call: (473) 439 5355. Closed Mondays.
Side-ah-road Wall Street Ladies. Local fare. Best cane juice from a most amazing contraption across the road. Monday to Friday. Friday nights on Wall Street is wall-to-wall food. Ask any local. EC$12 up
Ebony Restaurant, Grenville. Jacqueline Rennier serves up great local nosh in this upstairs restaurant of this famous fishing village. Monday to Saturday lunch. EC$8 up.
Friday Night Fish Fry in the town of Gouyabe. Stall upon stall of fish-ah-grilling, and lots of Westerhall rum for drinking and music for dancing. EC$10 up.
Secret Harbour, Morne Fendue Plantation. The oldest Amerindian pepperpot still bubbles. See guide or call the tourist board for assistance here. Just re-opened. EC$20 up.
True Blue Bay, Grande Anse. Caribbean Mexican. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner. Perfect for night-time dining. Try their nutmeg cheesecake. For reservations call: (473) 443 8783 EC $20 up.
Oliver's, St. George's. International gourmet. You must make reservations, call: (473) 444 4258. EC$25 up.
Laluna, Italian. reakfast/lunch/dinner. Dinner is a more romantic affair. Try shrimp linguine. Call: (473) 439 0001. EC$15 up.
La Belle Creole, Grand Anse Beach. Breakfast/lunch/dinner. Lunch and dinner (best). Gourmet Caribbean. Try chilled christophene soup. Call them at: (473) 444 4316 US$15 up.
Rhodes, Calabash Hotel, Lance aux Epines. Famous Chef Gary Rhodes; the only restaurant outside of the United Kingdom. Specialises in gourmet meals. Reservations are a must, so call: (473) 444 4334 EC$25 up.
Creole Shak, St. George's. Blend of provencale Creole, Louisiana southern style and Caribbean exotic. Closed on Sundays. Call them at: (473) 435 7422. EC$15 up.
Rosemary Parkinson has eaten her wicket out. She was last seen trying to suck into her jeans with the use of a vacuum cleaner!
