Keisha Shakespeare-Blackmore, Staff Reporter

Left: Managing director of Dolly's Café, Joycelyn 'Dolly' Gordon-Barber, as she cuts mangoes to make a fruit punch. Right: A freshly made fruit punch. - Photos by Claudine Housen/Staff Photographer

Dolly's Café and Pub offers one of Montego Bay's finest dining experiences. The little gem is adjacent to Hotel Gloriana on Sunset Boulevard in Montego Bay.

Close to the entrance is a small balcony where patrons can enjoy a drink and have a smoke (there's a no-smoking policy inside.

The dining area is reminiscent of a European café and pub, very intimate with small tables, which occupy minimal space, leaving an uncluttered feeling. On the walls hang photographs of celebrities who have dined at the café. They include Ray Charles, Gladys Knight, Lennox Lewis and Michael Jordan. Close to the ceiling are shelves stacked with dolls and other artefacts. There is even one of the late Louise Bennett-Coverley that sings, 'Long time gal mi neva see you'. These dolls were given to the proprietor Joycelyn Gordon-Barber by friends, to represent her 'pet' name, Miss Dolly.

Dolly's Café and Pub was a must-stop when Food visited the Second City last Tuesday. Its fame had spread far and wide. Miss Dolly is a ball of energy. She claims to have received the name because in her words, "Even though I am old, you don't see why? Unu nuh see mi pretty like a dolly? That's why I was given the name," she said.

Loved cooking as a girl

"As a young girl, I loved cooking and everyone saw me ending up in the food industry, but me," she explained.

However, it did not happen until 14 years ago. Before she found her true calling, she tried a number of things. Her first job was as a sales clerk in a store which she ended up doing for 12 years. Simultaneously, she operated a beauty shop. In the early 1970s, she went into the hotel industry. She worked as a cocktail waitress at Holiday Inn in the Humming Bird Lounge. She stuck with that for three years, at the same time, taking up interior designing. For the other 20 plus years, she wore many hats, including boutique owner, salesperson and nightclub operator.

Twenty-one years ago, while being the 'Jill of all trades', she married Michael Barber. They went into business together, selling satellite dishes and auto parts. Shortly after, they bought a farm in Latium, St. James.

"I did not know anything about farming but I worked the farm. We had lots of fruit trees and ground provisions which are used in my café."

Available space

While operating the farm, she found out from a client that a space was available at her present location.

"I did not know what I was going to do with the space but bought it anyway. I thought maybe I would open a bar but I figured that a bar would not be as feasible, so I decided on a café and pub."

She started out with a small grill, serving grilled lobster and conch and, of course, drinks at the bar. People started asking for soup so she began making it. Soon the demand outgrew the little grill and she had to bring in a stove from home to be used in the café. Over the years, her business has grown and her clientele includes many European tourists. She notes that Europeans do not have a problem with the space. In fact, they are quite familiar with such intimate settings.

She promises the total dining experience when you come to Dolly's. However, you will not be able to get the Dolly's experience come the end of August, because she closes for six weeks during the slow period.

The 67-year-old said she assists with just about every aspect of the business - from cleaning, cooking and serving, to managing - because at Dolly's they are all family.

Left: Blue drawers garnished with tomato, one of the many Jamaican desserts served at Dolly's Café. Right: Dolly's world-famous potato pudding topped with coconut cream and a cherry.