Photo by Rosemary Parkinson
John Conrad Ste.Marthe

Rosemary Parkinson, Contributor

A 'foodies' paradise if you ask me. I am hoping to make all, my priority. St. Lucian Chef John Conrad Ste. Marthe will be at the BET Maco St. Lucia Food and Rum Festival. Visit the website at: www.foodandrumfestival.com for details.

In an exclusive interview with New York-based Conrad, I found out a little more about this affable man. In theUnited States (U.S.) for some 33 years, here is another islander making it huge abroad in the culinary arts.

How? "It's all about determination, hard work, taking advantage of any opportunities to get into that kitchen (no matter how difficult) but, most of all, it's about love and passion. I once took a job only for the high pay. It was the worst experience ever. So you have to be mindful - it's not always about money. I promised myself I would never do that again. Cooking has to have love and passion."

Conrad left St. Lucia at 18 to work on a yacht. So impressed were the owners, they sent him to the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) to study for two years. Where did he even get the interest in cooking? I asked. "Well, as a child I had chronic asthma. When sick and not attending school, my mother - single with four children - would take me to work at The Calabash Restaurant in St. Lucia. Her employer was English ... Maria Grech. I would sit in the corner watching with amazement while all this wonderful food left the kitchen. I believe the seed was planted then. As I grew up I cooked a lot, influenced by my mother. mom is still in touch with Maria and I send them both a Mother's Day card every year. It was because of Mom and Maria. All of it."

Conrad, Bill Cosby and Sting?

Graduating on a Friday from culinary school, Monday morning saw Ste. Marthe as an apprentice in New York City with Larry Forgione at Regine's. Several high-end restaurants and hotels followed before travelling through France and delving into French cuisine before returning to New York via St. Lucia. Once again, I went into learning mode in restaurants and hotels.

You were Bill Cosby's personal chef for 13 years. How did you meet him?

"Someone told me he was looking for a chef, I applied. At the interview, he described his favourite soup - the bouillabaisse - and I made it to his instructions. I got close but not perfect. He invited me back twice and that was it. I travelled the world with him; prepared his five homes for his arrivals; cooked in all of them for the family; was a steward on his private plane - he even sent me to France to work in his favourite restaurants. Working for Mr. Cosby was like going to the best university in the world."

Was there a Caribbean dish he loved?

"Oh! Yes! he enjoyed Accra (fish cakes)."

Thirteen years later, armed with blessings from Cosby and a list of prominent people, he started his own business - a personalised chef service. Conrad travels the United States, tantalising the taste buds of many high-profile personalities and celebrities. "I am not allowed to talk about them. I do have to sign confidentiality forms."

So, who else really loved Caribbean food?

"Sting and his wife just love everything I cook for them. They are very curious about different tastes, so I can make my curries and throw in my spices. Many clients have their own particular taste that forces me to a Eurocentric menu but, with people like Sting, I can introduce my island. I do customise menus based on the client's requests, dietary requirements, entertainment needs creating a wide range of meals to best reflect any situation: business meetings, special events, private family meals."

What's up with Caribbean cuisine?

"With the Food Network and other programmes, Americans are going crazy on ethnic. Caribbean food is hot. I love to introduce it when I can, like using plantain chips with guacamole instead of potato. Every opportunity I get, it's about home. In fact, I went to a very up-market restaurant the other night called Negril. What an experience to see so many people from different walks of life, different cultures, all enjoying Caribbean food. It made me proud."

What's your favourite St. Lucian dish?

"When I go home I just want what is ours. Souse. Bakes. Sometimes when I think of St. Lucia and it's a cold night, I love to put together the thick red pea soup my grandmother used to make. We would sit ...." With this Conrad went silent.

Are you reminiscing, Conrad?

"Oh! Yes. You got me. I can see my grandmother right now, putting all those pig ears and stuff in there, huge dumplings. Just talking about it brings the memories."

Are you looking forward to 'Maco's' Food & Rum?

"I cannot wait. I feel proud for the opportunity to share with St. Lucia my life and experiences, letting everyone know that all one has to do is take that first step, and we can make it."

To 'Maco' is to find out

The Food and Rum Festival was first produced by Maco Caribbean Living Magazine (Trinidad), the brainchild of Neysha Soodeen, the magazine's managing director and Allen Chastanet, now St. Lucia's Minister of Tourism. Neysha says: "Rums galore, including Appleton, are coming. Angostura will launch Angostura Orange Bitters.

There will be 50 different rums from as far up the Caribbean as Haiti. International chefs such as Oprah's personal chef, Art Smith (watch out for an interview with him), will be there.

There is a fantastic kitchen sponsored by Italian Kitchen makers Scavolini, complete with all GE monogram appliances. Also in attendance will be international and local master chefs on stage to give live demonstrations.

We are expecting Norma Shirley; mixologist Abou Ganim will shake cocktails, as will Ian Burrell. There will be mardi gras street parties with live music ... But, mostly, this festival provides a forum to market participant's products to the international media as well as to the regional food and beverage industry.

Trade publications such as Class Magazine, Drinks International, Restaurant Magazine, Theme Magazine and Wine & Spirits will cover the event. BET J placed St. Lucia on the map as a culinary destination last year; they are back and sponsoring too.

This is an opportunity to develop a niche market to deal with the problems created by the World Trade Organisation whose regimes and policies have seriously undermined the Caribbean's rum industry. Rum is considered a boutique spirit gaining serious momentum in bars and restaurants in countries such as the United Kingdom and the United States of America.

With a festival of our own, we can actively promote not only our rum industry, but also our indigenous food and ingredients found within the Caribbean."

Schedule of events