Photos by Anthea McGibbon
Garth Sanguinetti, master jeweller in his pirate costume. From left, ackee seed brooch and Jamaican marble pendant.

Anthea McGibbon, Gleaner Writer

THE TERM master jeweller is often used loosely, but not with the case of Garth Sanguinetti. He is one of Jamaica's master jewellers, and for some persons, the Caribbean's best. But, for too long, the superb talent of Sanguinetti has gone unnoticed.

Sanguinetti is a master in every way, as he pushes the creative envelope and leaves it open for others to take hints as they strive to follow. Even more, Sanguinetti, focused on using Jamaican materials and carrying it to international levels, is a pioneer at his craft - creating pieces as he shares from his many experiences and prism of expertise. Most of the time, he captivates hearts with his one-of-a-kind creations.

He has studied in at least five countries including Colombia, Mexico, Germany, Italy and England, and is now in pursuit of his Ph.D. in jewellery making.

However, going beyond mere academic training, he is creative and applies his knowledge of metal and design to produce an ever-expanding portfolio which spans all aspects of jewellery. He literally creates from fine small pieces to larger-than-life size pieces. He continues to make indelible impressions in the industries of tourism, fashion, jewellery, theatre. In so doing, he has successfully "brought fine jewellery and fashion together".

His most recent theatre project ended on December 19. It was a drama production in the form of a children's Christmas pageant hosted by Hillel, at the Philip Sherlock Centre for the Creative Arts, where he designed mechanical transforming robots.

Sanguinetti has accessorised numerous models for a range of fashion shows, locally and internationally. These include theatre and stage set designs and costumes. His clientele include Siim, Barry Moncrieffe, Saint International, and Macy's in Massachusettes.

Engaging in the annual Jamaica Carnival events, he is the main brain behind floats such as 'Port Royal', 'Supreme Ventures Underwater', and 'True Juice'. Floats and theatre are for Sanguinetti an occasional "escape from the seriousness of work".

On another level, his jewellery can be found in numerous hotels worldwide. He has even designed pieces for Queen Elizabeth II.

Yet, from his apparently hidden reserves, he finds time to conduct international workshops on new lines of jewellery. One recent offer came from a South African company, bent on securing the unique Jamaican jewel.

Sanguinetti, a man detailed in both his fine and commercial jewellery, says he works with "all types of metals", and this broad range includes alloys, copper, brass, silver, platinum, etc.

He, however, also works with marble, diamonds, river stones and plastic.

"It's necessary to have a trademark," says Sanguinetti, who under Sangar Designs, markets his fashion jewellery line.

Locally, he is creating waves, using Jamaican materials and transforming them to international standards. His aim is to create a signature-brand of jewellery of and for Jamaica. He intimately indulges in indigenous and often overlooked material such as twigs, shells, and riverstones.

Newest projects

The afore-mentioned brand takes the form of a heritage line which is just one of his newest and current projects. In a recent interview with The Arts, he reveals another project - as head of the applied arts section of the Edna Manley College of the Visual and Performing Arts, he is literally transforming the jewellery department.

Almost hush on the new heritage line, Sanguinetti, however, says that in developing his line, there was much observation on the three in Jamaica - Cornwall, Middlesex and Surrey, and the jewellery is based on what is happening in the three regions.

The new line which is made from a kind of nylon, is knitted, crocheted and woven with semi-precious stones which reflect Jamaica as a melting pot of cultures (Spanish, African, Indian and English).

Those who know Sanguinetti are familiar with his always whizzing by, as he apparently races against the pace at which the ideas form in his head.

His raw talent can be traced as an inheritance from his parents, an Italian dad and an Indian mom. His great- grandparents, father's side, are Italian and German, while his great-grandparents, mother's side, are of Jamaican Taino Indian and Scottish descent. He explains that as a third generation offspring, he was destined for a career in either jewellery or architecture.

Evidently, he has found a way to incorporate the two in his path as a jeweller. 'Jewellery', he says, "connects all his fascinations, which not only

flows together, but complements each other". This is as a result of his ongoing fascination with mechanism, structure, movement and architecture which are all revealed in the exceptional floats and household mobiles he makes.

One pet peeve for the master jeweller is the too-often use of cheap materials to produce craft jewellery that is sold to tourists. This is especially true, he says, of imitations that have been mass produced and imported from countries such as China. Personally, he shies away from using such cheap materials as he says there is no innovation, and in order to produce something real good from these, one has to work three times as hard with an additional lot to considering terms of image and durability. Hence he says, it remains as a mere craft item "when you really want superior art forms".

Copycats not a bother

In his 28-year career, Sanguinetti does not worry about 'copycats' of his designs. As a creative mind, his well of ideas is bottomless as he uses his well-known infectious laughter to exhale stress.

With a broad knowledge and years of exploration, the question really is where has he yet to be? What has he not explored along his chosen pathway where he gives personal meaning to everything?

Anthea McGibbon, a graduate of the Edna Manley College of the Visual and Performing Arts has over 10 years experience in the fields of journalism and the arts. Contact her at islandartattack@yahoo.co.uk or anthea.mcgibbon@gleanerjm.com

Garth's FACT FILE